North Tower of Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and other ...
T
o rres del
Pa in e N
a t io n a l
Pa r k
N orth Tower o f Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and other ascents. O n D ecem ber 31 Tina DiBatista an d I (Slovenians) clim bed a new ro u te to the N o rth S um m it o f the N o rth Tower o f Paine. We clim bed a beautiful crack line to th e right o f the route A rm as y Rozas. I had tried the line w ith my friend Nejc Bevk tw o days before, b u t we h ad to re treat because o f a su d d en sno w sto rm . We clim bed aro u n d 250m th a t day. It was cold, b u t the rock was dry, and we were m ostly free clim b ing. We did n o t leave fixed ropes. Two days later cracks were full o f snow and ice, so T ina an d I w ere forced to aid m o st o f th e hard pitches. We were angry about the conditions, b u t o u r tim e was ru n n in g out, an d we had to take w hat was offered. At 6 p.m . we reached the su m m it and rappelled the route. The ro u n d trip from base cam p took 19 hours. The nam e o f o u r 500m ro u te is Los Esclavos del B aro m etro (B arom eter Slaves), and we graded it V 5.10 A2. We believe it w ould be possible to free clim b th e ro u te, w ith
difficulties a ro u n d 5.11. O n th e first tw o pitches we fo u n d pieces o f old fixed ropes. O n Decem ber 16 we climbed the Piola– Sprungli 1992 ro u te, La U ltim a E speranza (500m , 5.11 A l). O u r friends Janez Peterlin an d Nejc Brescak repeated Taller del Sol (500m , 5.10+). Tom
az
Ja k o f c ic ,
Slovenia
o rres del
Pa in e N
a t io n a l
Pa r k
N orth Tower o f Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and other ascents. O n D ecem ber 31 Tina DiBatista an d I (Slovenians) clim bed a new ro u te to the N o rth S um m it o f the N o rth Tower o f Paine. We clim bed a beautiful crack line to th e right o f the route A rm as y Rozas. I had tried the line w ith my friend Nejc Bevk tw o days before, b u t we h ad to re treat because o f a su d d en sno w sto rm . We clim bed aro u n d 250m th a t day. It was cold, b u t the rock was dry, and we were m ostly free clim b ing. We did n o t leave fixed ropes. Two days later cracks were full o f snow and ice, so T ina an d I w ere forced to aid m o st o f th e hard pitches. We were angry about the conditions, b u t o u r tim e was ru n n in g out, an d we had to take w hat was offered. At 6 p.m . we reached the su m m it and rappelled the route. The ro u n d trip from base cam p took 19 hours. The nam e o f o u r 500m ro u te is Los Esclavos del B aro m etro (B arom eter Slaves), and we graded it V 5.10 A2. We believe it w ould be possible to free clim b th e ro u te, w ith
difficulties a ro u n d 5.11. O n th e first tw o pitches we fo u n d pieces o f old fixed ropes. O n Decem ber 16 we climbed the Piola– Sprungli 1992 ro u te, La U ltim a E speranza (500m , 5.11 A l). O u r friends Janez Peterlin an d Nejc Brescak repeated Taller del Sol (500m , 5.10+). Tom
az
Ja k o f c ic ,
Slovenia
