Overnight Slouch Bag Created by Debbi Lashbrook Supplies: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
1 yard outer fabric 1 yard lining fabric 1 coordinating fabric for inside pocket & binding ½ yd warm & natural Variegated thread for Free-motion stitching Zippers: 1 7” & 1 9” Web Bond Wash-away Wonder Tape 5 buttons
Desired BERNINA feet: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
#24, #29 or BSR(all free-motion feet) #4 or #54 zipper feet # 50 Walking foot #88 bias binder with # 95C foot #18 button sew-on foot
Preparation & Cutting: 1. Enlarge the pattern pieces from page 32-35, Through the Needle-Special Classroom Edition 2006 on our web site, 200% or bring in something to use to trace the pattern we have already increased. 2. Cut the following: A. From outer fabric: 1. Two rectangles, 34” by 19” 2. One outer zippered pocket pattern B. From lining fabric: 1. Two rectangles 34” by 19” C. From coordinating fabric: 1. 1 inner pocket pattern “A” 2. 1 inner pocket pattern “B” 3. 1 inner pocket pattern “C” 4. 1 17” by 8” rectangle for inner pocket lining 5. 1 21” by 17 ¼” rectangle for inner pocket base 6. Starched bias strips (1 ½” wide), pieced to form a strip that is approximately 110” long. D. From batting cut: 1. Two rectangles, 34” by 19” 2. 1 inner pocket pattern “A” 3. 1 inner pocket pattern “B” 4. 1 inner pocket pattern “C”
5. 1 10 ½” by 17” for inner pocket Construction: 1. Place the right side of the outer fabric rectangles together & stitch a ½” seam along one of the 34” edge. 2. Repeat for the batting pieces & lining fabrics. Press all seams open. For the batting, I used the #10 foot and joined the two edges of batting with the # 2, 4, or 8 stitch, lengthen to about 2.5mm & width of 4.5mm. 3. Using Web Bond, spray the wrong side of the outside fabric and place it on one side of the batting and then spray the wrong side lining fabric and place it on the other side of the batting. 4. Place the bag pattern on top of the fabrics matching the edge of the pattern to the seam line of the fabrics. Using a chalk pencil, trace around the pattern, then without reversing the pattern piece, move it over on your fabric and trace a second bag body. See fig. 1.
Trim around the bag outline, leaving an extra ½” of fabric around all outside edges for shrinkage when you quilt the piece. 5. Free-motion quilt the pieces you have just created. (I used stitch # 516 on my BERNINA machine and just sewed back & forth, moving the fabric to fill in the areas as needed). Stop quilting about 2” from the upper edge of the straps so that you can stitch the shoulder seam. 6. The outer fabric of the front strap will be sewn to the lining of the back strap so that the strap will rest on your shoulder. Place these edges right side together and stitch using a ½” seam. Trim the batting from the seam allowances and press the seam open. Fold the seam allowance of one of the loose straps to the under side and lap it slightly over the other loose strap. Pin in place and from the outside, stitch-in-the-ditch. Fig 2.
7. Creating the outside zippered pocket: A. Spray Web Bond on the wrong side of the outer pocket piece. Place batting against the wrong side of the pocket. B. Place the zipper facing and the pocket, right sides together, aligning one of the long edges of the facing with the diagonal edge of the pocket. (Make sure that the box on the facing is no larger than 3/8” in width.) C. Stitch on the dotted line with a short stitch Length, 2.0mm, then clip into the corners And cut down the center of the box. D. Turn the facing to the wrong side and Press. E. Place Wash-away Wonder tape on each side of the 9” zipper. Peel the paper off both sides of the zipper, then place the zipper in the box, aligning the teeth in the center and the metal box on the end of the zipper is exposed. Finger press in place. F. Lift up one side of the edge of the pocket and expose the previous stitching line. Stitch along this line again. Repeat for the other side, then do both ends, being careful to make sure the zipper is unzipped and you do not hit the metal box. G. Quilt this pocket as desired. H. Open the zipper, then place the right side of the pocket to the right side of the pocket lining and stitch around the pocket edges with a ¼” seam allowance. Trim corners, turn right side out thru the zipper opening and press. Top stitch the pocket to the front of the bag using the placement line on the pattern. Use the #10 or 10C foot. 8. Inner Removable pocket: a. Spray the wrong side of the pocket piece (A) with Web Bond and place the matching piece of batting on the wrong side of the fabric. b. Inserting the zipper: 1. Place the 7” zipper face down on the right side of the bottom edge of pocket piece (B), aligning the end of the zipper with the bottom edge of the pocket.
zipper metal box. 2. Stitch close to the zipper teeth to insert zipper. Place the top edge of pocket “C” to the other side of the zipper and repeat stitching. 3. Open the zipper, place the left edge of pocket “B/C” to the right edge of pocket piece “A”. With right sides together, sew a ½” seam. 4. Sew the top edge of the pocket lining to this unit, right sides together. Press & then under stitch along the edge with the # 10 foot. To understitch, press both seam allowances toward the lining. Place the blade of the foot into the well of the seam.
9. Assembling the Removable Pocket: a. Press the pocket base fabric is ½ so it measures 10” by 16”. Spray Web Bond on the lower half of the pressed pocket base and place the batting here. If you want to divide your pockets into sections, do it now. b. Fold the pocket base along the pressed fold line, aligning the raw edges, right sides together. Stitch the sides and bottom of the base, leaving an opening for turning. Turn and press. Stitch opening closed by hand or with the edge stitch foot #10. c. Mark and stitch 5 ¾” buttonholes along the upper edge, beginning and ending 1” from each side of the pocket base. d. Mark the position of the buttons on the inside of the bag and using the #18 button sew-on foot, attach the buttons.
10. Finishing the bag: a. Stay-stitch ¼” from all edges of the bag. Using the ½” bias binder, attach bias binding to the seam allowances of the un-sewn side seams. Trim the binding even with the bag edges at the top & bottom of the seam. b. Beginning at one edge of the open side of the bag, bind the edge, stitching around the bag in one continuous line to the other open side. c. Sew the side seam with a ½” seam allowance. (this will be hidden in the edge of the bias trim). d. Bind the bottom edge of the bag, then sew the seam the same as in step “C”. e. At each corner on the inside of the bag, bring the seams together and sew across the end so that the stitching line is 1” in length. Repeat for other side.