Rear Disc Brake Conversion - Wild Horses 4x4
640 North El Dorado Street Stockton, CA 95202 Phone (209)943-0991 Fax (209)943-7923 www.wildhorses4x4.com
Rear Disc Brake Conversion #3061
2 - New Vented Rotors 2 - 2 Base Brackets 2 - 2 Caliper Brackets 2 - Spacer Plates 8 - 1/2” or 3/8”x 1 1/2” T-Bolts
Date 05/15/12
8 - 1/2” or 3/8” Grade 8 Nuts 8 - 1/2” or 3/8” Grade 8 Lock Washers 4 - 1/8” Spacers 4 - 1/4” Spacers 8 - 5/16” Spacers
8 - 3/8” Grade 8 Nuts 8 - 3/8” Grade 8 Lock Washers 8 - 3/8” – 24 x 2 1/2” Grade 8 Bolts 8 - 3/8” Grade 8 Flat Washers
Replacement and Additional Parts 2 78-83 Chevelle, Monte Carlo, El Camino, Malibu, Tempest, Cutlass front calipers (non e-brake) 2 79-85 El-Dorado, Riviera, Toronado. 80-85 Seville (E-brakes on the calipers) Rear calipers Caliper Caliper bracket Installation Instructions Base bracket (2) bracket (4) spacers (5) 1 Remove the axles to take the backing plates off. 2 Install the axles with the spacer plates. (1) Stock axle 3 Install the base bracket (2) with the caliper up retaining plate (3) and to the rear. If the stock axle retainer plate (3) will not slide far enough to get the new bracket in position, remove the stock retainer. The new base bracket (2) will act as the bearing retainer plate. Use the spacer plate (1) to take the place of the Spacer plate backing plate. Use the T-Bolts, flat washers, lock (1) washers, and nuts. For non-e-brake applications install the bracket in a 45-degree position. Use 90-degree position for e-brake calipers. If you flip Axle the bracket over, slightly different positions are availible too. Bolt the caliper bracket (4) to the base bracket (2) with the spacers (5) between. (The bracket is spaced to the inside of the vehicle away from the rotor.(45 ft. lbs. dry 30 ft. lbs. Lubed) Most Broncos will use two large and one small spacer as shown. Additional combos of spacers may be used if necessary. 4 Install the rotors, making sure the surfaces that meet are clean with no projections that would make the rotors wobble, and hold in place with a couple of lug nuts. 5 Install the calipers so that the bleed screw is facing up, if it is facing down use the other caliper. Make sure the projections on the bottom of the calipers don’t touch the bracket. 6 Use a flexibe brake hose to each caliper as they move with pad wear and when the brakes are applied. 7 You will need to shorten existing hard lines to fit with your new flexable hoses. Tab brackets can be welded to rear end housing. Hoses route to tab brackets and are retained with the U-shaped hose clips. Position of tab bracket will vary based on shock mounting position. Weld in proper location for your application. 8 Bleed the brakes, install wheels and test brake system. Driver side 45-degree position non E-brake caliper
Driver side 90-degree position E-brake caliper
Adjusting & Bleeding Your New Brake Conversion A. Caliper ear with sliding mounting sleeve. B. Slide sleeve inboard add or subtract spacers between base and caliper bracket. Put the welded sleeve of the caliper bracket close to the ear of the caliper. 1. When you install the calipers put them in the position you like-one where the cable will work well (if you have the park brake calipers) and the hose connection is in a good location. If you go off road you can mount the calipers high to avoid brush and rocks. Don’t worry about being in the right position to bleed the brakes. The calipers have to be taken off of the brackets to bleed anyway and once they are bled it does not matter what position they are in. 2. Once everything is installed and before you put the wheels on, bleed the calipers. Air rises so the bleed screw must be at the top. You can start by the normal bleeding methods, but the brakes will not work properly and you will have a soft pedal if you do not take the calipers off of the brackets and gravity bleed them to get every last bit of the air out. 3. To gravity bleed take the cover off of the master cylinder, take the calipers off of the brackets, and hold behind the axle. Hold the caliper so that the bleed screw points forwards, horizontal with the ground on the (small) 5 ½ inch pin to pin calipers and straight up on the (large) 7 inch pin to pin calipers. The mounting holes in the ears are around 45 degrees on a non parking brake caliper and straight up one hole above the other on a parking brake caliper. Open the bleed screw and the fluid will start to dribble out. Slowly move the calipers just in case you are not in the correct position and also tap on the calipers with a rubber hammer to knock bubbles loose. Once the fluid is clear with no air bubbles, close the bleeder and hang that caliper on a wire and do the other side. Do both calipers again and then reinstall. (Do not step on the hydraulic pedal yet) (go to step 5 for non parking brake calipers) 4. Adjust the parking brake levers by pushing them forward. Each time you
Sliding sleeves located on calipers
Caliper bracket, welded sleeve
push them they should move off of the stop less. To be properly adjusted, they should only move off of the stop 3/8 to ½ inch. When released, they should always return to the stop. If they will not adjust, try putting a lever between the rotor and the pad and putting pressure on the piston. Now push the lever releasing pressure on the pad as the caliper adjusts. These are the only two ways we know of to adjust the parking brake. If the calipers won’t adjust you will have a low pedal because the piston will retract too far and will use up all your hydraulic pedal travel to put the brakes on. Once the parking brake calipers are adjusted put a c-clamp on between the lever and bracket to hold the parking brakes locked up. 5. Step on the hydraulic pedal, it should he high and hard. If it is low and spongy, or it will pump up, you still have air. Take the caliper off the brackets and bleed some more. If you have parking brake calipers, and they are locked up against the rotors and there is no air in the rear system. Then there will be no fluid movement in the rear brake system and the pedal should be as high as before you changed the brakes and had the parking brake on. It does not matter what size master cylinder you have, if there is no fluid movement, you will have a high and hard hydraulic pedal. There might be a problem with your front system since you have not changed the front, your pedal should be high and hard. It is not as easy to check if you are using non-parking brake calipers. The calipers run close to the rotors, so check to see that the pads don’t rattle. If your pedal is low and spongy, you have air. Take the calipers off and bleed them some more.
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Rear Disc Brake Conversion #3061
2 - New Vented Rotors 2 - 2 Base Brackets 2 - 2 Caliper Brackets 2 - Spacer Plates 8 - 1/2” or 3/8”x 1 1/2” T-Bolts
Date 05/15/12
8 - 1/2” or 3/8” Grade 8 Nuts 8 - 1/2” or 3/8” Grade 8 Lock Washers 4 - 1/8” Spacers 4 - 1/4” Spacers 8 - 5/16” Spacers
8 - 3/8” Grade 8 Nuts 8 - 3/8” Grade 8 Lock Washers 8 - 3/8” – 24 x 2 1/2” Grade 8 Bolts 8 - 3/8” Grade 8 Flat Washers
Replacement and Additional Parts 2 78-83 Chevelle, Monte Carlo, El Camino, Malibu, Tempest, Cutlass front calipers (non e-brake) 2 79-85 El-Dorado, Riviera, Toronado. 80-85 Seville (E-brakes on the calipers) Rear calipers Caliper Caliper bracket Installation Instructions Base bracket (2) bracket (4) spacers (5) 1 Remove the axles to take the backing plates off. 2 Install the axles with the spacer plates. (1) Stock axle 3 Install the base bracket (2) with the caliper up retaining plate (3) and to the rear. If the stock axle retainer plate (3) will not slide far enough to get the new bracket in position, remove the stock retainer. The new base bracket (2) will act as the bearing retainer plate. Use the spacer plate (1) to take the place of the Spacer plate backing plate. Use the T-Bolts, flat washers, lock (1) washers, and nuts. For non-e-brake applications install the bracket in a 45-degree position. Use 90-degree position for e-brake calipers. If you flip Axle the bracket over, slightly different positions are availible too. Bolt the caliper bracket (4) to the base bracket (2) with the spacers (5) between. (The bracket is spaced to the inside of the vehicle away from the rotor.(45 ft. lbs. dry 30 ft. lbs. Lubed) Most Broncos will use two large and one small spacer as shown. Additional combos of spacers may be used if necessary. 4 Install the rotors, making sure the surfaces that meet are clean with no projections that would make the rotors wobble, and hold in place with a couple of lug nuts. 5 Install the calipers so that the bleed screw is facing up, if it is facing down use the other caliper. Make sure the projections on the bottom of the calipers don’t touch the bracket. 6 Use a flexibe brake hose to each caliper as they move with pad wear and when the brakes are applied. 7 You will need to shorten existing hard lines to fit with your new flexable hoses. Tab brackets can be welded to rear end housing. Hoses route to tab brackets and are retained with the U-shaped hose clips. Position of tab bracket will vary based on shock mounting position. Weld in proper location for your application. 8 Bleed the brakes, install wheels and test brake system. Driver side 45-degree position non E-brake caliper
Driver side 90-degree position E-brake caliper
Adjusting & Bleeding Your New Brake Conversion A. Caliper ear with sliding mounting sleeve. B. Slide sleeve inboard add or subtract spacers between base and caliper bracket. Put the welded sleeve of the caliper bracket close to the ear of the caliper. 1. When you install the calipers put them in the position you like-one where the cable will work well (if you have the park brake calipers) and the hose connection is in a good location. If you go off road you can mount the calipers high to avoid brush and rocks. Don’t worry about being in the right position to bleed the brakes. The calipers have to be taken off of the brackets to bleed anyway and once they are bled it does not matter what position they are in. 2. Once everything is installed and before you put the wheels on, bleed the calipers. Air rises so the bleed screw must be at the top. You can start by the normal bleeding methods, but the brakes will not work properly and you will have a soft pedal if you do not take the calipers off of the brackets and gravity bleed them to get every last bit of the air out. 3. To gravity bleed take the cover off of the master cylinder, take the calipers off of the brackets, and hold behind the axle. Hold the caliper so that the bleed screw points forwards, horizontal with the ground on the (small) 5 ½ inch pin to pin calipers and straight up on the (large) 7 inch pin to pin calipers. The mounting holes in the ears are around 45 degrees on a non parking brake caliper and straight up one hole above the other on a parking brake caliper. Open the bleed screw and the fluid will start to dribble out. Slowly move the calipers just in case you are not in the correct position and also tap on the calipers with a rubber hammer to knock bubbles loose. Once the fluid is clear with no air bubbles, close the bleeder and hang that caliper on a wire and do the other side. Do both calipers again and then reinstall. (Do not step on the hydraulic pedal yet) (go to step 5 for non parking brake calipers) 4. Adjust the parking brake levers by pushing them forward. Each time you
Sliding sleeves located on calipers
Caliper bracket, welded sleeve
push them they should move off of the stop less. To be properly adjusted, they should only move off of the stop 3/8 to ½ inch. When released, they should always return to the stop. If they will not adjust, try putting a lever between the rotor and the pad and putting pressure on the piston. Now push the lever releasing pressure on the pad as the caliper adjusts. These are the only two ways we know of to adjust the parking brake. If the calipers won’t adjust you will have a low pedal because the piston will retract too far and will use up all your hydraulic pedal travel to put the brakes on. Once the parking brake calipers are adjusted put a c-clamp on between the lever and bracket to hold the parking brakes locked up. 5. Step on the hydraulic pedal, it should he high and hard. If it is low and spongy, or it will pump up, you still have air. Take the caliper off the brackets and bleed some more. If you have parking brake calipers, and they are locked up against the rotors and there is no air in the rear system. Then there will be no fluid movement in the rear brake system and the pedal should be as high as before you changed the brakes and had the parking brake on. It does not matter what size master cylinder you have, if there is no fluid movement, you will have a high and hard hydraulic pedal. There might be a problem with your front system since you have not changed the front, your pedal should be high and hard. It is not as easy to check if you are using non-parking brake calipers. The calipers run close to the rotors, so check to see that the pads don’t rattle. If your pedal is low and spongy, you have air. Take the calipers off and bleed them some more.
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