shore thing
tr ave l
shore thing head to the lesser known centre and east coast of the island paradise of sri lanka, where diverse landscapes, ancient ruins and wonderful wildlife await, plus a new line in luxury living. By lorna davies
S
ri Lanka has long been popular with those wishing to sample its cultural delights, stunning wildlife and kaleidoscopic landscape. But with the ravages of war still fresh, previous accommodation options have been limited to budget beach shacks, home stays or smart bungalows, with a few luxury hotels located in the more touristy areas of Galle and southern coastal resorts. Now, the rest of the beautiful island is catching up. They say you have to go to the heart of a country to really get to know it, and I have to agree when it comes to Kandy, the cultural centre of Sri Lanka. Getting a train there from the capital Colombo is an easy and enjoyable experience (but book first class in advance as tickets sell out quickly). The train passes through thick jungle up steep hills opening out on to tea plantations and rice paddies until it reaches the bustling city. It’s worth staying in Kandy for a few nights. The Temple of the Tooth, the holiest shrine for Sri Lankan Buddhists, is the well-trodden tourist destination (literally, as the grooves in the stone will testament) – but it is well worth seeing. For something a little different, search out the small
| 79
MT Dec16 79-82 Travel.indd 79
21/11/2016 16:36
tr av e l
Anglican graveyard, past the naughty monkeys, up a dusty street at the back of the temple. The British Garrison Cemetery was established in 1817 for the British army just after the British takeover of Kandy. The Kandyan kingdom had been the last part of the island, then called Ceylon, to hold out against colonial power. All sorts of colonialists were admitted – civil servants, doctors, priests, railwaymen – and their families. A keen guide pointed out the graves, including one man killed by wild elephants, as well as proudly showing us Prince Charles’s visit in 2013. Take the opportunity here to buy tickets to a traditional Kandyan dance show – again, it’s a popular choice but is worth seeing, especially the fire eating. Accommodation in the centre includes Freedom Lodge – a good option, with a lovely, friendly family feel and spacious rooms, located just close enough to Kandy’s spectacular lake, but far enough away from the noisy road. Further afield, around 30 minutes outside Kandy, is where the real luxury lies. Down a very bumpy track high in the hills (2,400 feet) outside the city is Ellerton. Originally built for the manager of a large tea estate 100 years ago, it’s now owned by Richard and Cary Goode, and retains the character and tranquillity of those colonial days. Set in beautiful gardens, Ellerton has eight comfortable double bedrooms, all with en-suite facilities. Lounge in the stunning pool set among jungle, overlooking one of the best views I’ve seen in the country. The rooms are beautifully designed, with modern, clean spaces made homely with local artefacts and traditional touches.
Bali
Bali
Bali
80 |
MT Dec16 79-82 Travel.indd 80
21/11/2016 16:36
shore thing head to the lesser known centre and east coast of the island paradise of sri lanka, where diverse landscapes, ancient ruins and wonderful wildlife await, plus a new line in luxury living. By lorna davies
S
ri Lanka has long been popular with those wishing to sample its cultural delights, stunning wildlife and kaleidoscopic landscape. But with the ravages of war still fresh, previous accommodation options have been limited to budget beach shacks, home stays or smart bungalows, with a few luxury hotels located in the more touristy areas of Galle and southern coastal resorts. Now, the rest of the beautiful island is catching up. They say you have to go to the heart of a country to really get to know it, and I have to agree when it comes to Kandy, the cultural centre of Sri Lanka. Getting a train there from the capital Colombo is an easy and enjoyable experience (but book first class in advance as tickets sell out quickly). The train passes through thick jungle up steep hills opening out on to tea plantations and rice paddies until it reaches the bustling city. It’s worth staying in Kandy for a few nights. The Temple of the Tooth, the holiest shrine for Sri Lankan Buddhists, is the well-trodden tourist destination (literally, as the grooves in the stone will testament) – but it is well worth seeing. For something a little different, search out the small
| 79
MT Dec16 79-82 Travel.indd 79
21/11/2016 16:36
tr av e l
Anglican graveyard, past the naughty monkeys, up a dusty street at the back of the temple. The British Garrison Cemetery was established in 1817 for the British army just after the British takeover of Kandy. The Kandyan kingdom had been the last part of the island, then called Ceylon, to hold out against colonial power. All sorts of colonialists were admitted – civil servants, doctors, priests, railwaymen – and their families. A keen guide pointed out the graves, including one man killed by wild elephants, as well as proudly showing us Prince Charles’s visit in 2013. Take the opportunity here to buy tickets to a traditional Kandyan dance show – again, it’s a popular choice but is worth seeing, especially the fire eating. Accommodation in the centre includes Freedom Lodge – a good option, with a lovely, friendly family feel and spacious rooms, located just close enough to Kandy’s spectacular lake, but far enough away from the noisy road. Further afield, around 30 minutes outside Kandy, is where the real luxury lies. Down a very bumpy track high in the hills (2,400 feet) outside the city is Ellerton. Originally built for the manager of a large tea estate 100 years ago, it’s now owned by Richard and Cary Goode, and retains the character and tranquillity of those colonial days. Set in beautiful gardens, Ellerton has eight comfortable double bedrooms, all with en-suite facilities. Lounge in the stunning pool set among jungle, overlooking one of the best views I’ve seen in the country. The rooms are beautifully designed, with modern, clean spaces made homely with local artefacts and traditional touches.
Bali
Bali
Bali
80 |
MT Dec16 79-82 Travel.indd 80
21/11/2016 16:36
