sSwimladder FINAL 22 JUNE - Timber Mart
Rising ~ to the ~
OCCASION Jumping in the lake is easy enough, but heaving yourself back out again can be a strenuous and ungainly manoeuvre. Here’s a swim ladder for water lovers that guarantees a swift and graceful exit.
B Y WAY N E L E N N O X . PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. MICHAEL LAFOND
128 JULY/AUGUST 1998 COTTAGE LIFE
L
ast year we constructed a new floating cedar dock for the cottage; hardly a sensational event, but significant
nonetheless as the old one had been built by my late father-in-law, Morley Abbott, some 20 years ago. Complete with an old-fashioned ramp, it is a simple and functional dock, as such structures go. Unfortunately, we gave very little consideration to the swim ladder, that most essential of accessories (all of us are well past the age when we could lunge gracefully up onto the dock). On a run into Parry Sound one day, I purchased one made of plastic and metal, which we installed that afternoon. It is certainly practical, but frankly, it just doesn’t fit; unlike the dock, the ladder is not pleasing to look at. The fact is, I had not even considered a wooden ladder until I saw some pictures of a swim ladder submitted by Cottage Life reader and Bayfield Inlet cottager Jim Vernon. It was designed by Jim’s neighbour, Doug Wagener, and built out of Douglas fir salvaged from
Jim’s dock. Besides looking good, the ladder is inclined, a terrific feature for the more COTTAGE LIFE JULY/AUGUST 1998 129
mature cottager. No more flopping around on the edge of the dock as you try to pull yourself out of the lake; with this ladder, you can ascend from the deeps with dignity and grace.
method described above (a simple straight router guide will keep your cuts parallel). 1 ⁄4" x 3" lag screws 2 pieces #9 x 3" STEP 5. Before cutting 2" x 8" x 7' cedar * outdoor screws 1 ⁄4" x 4" lag screws the dados that the ladder 1 piece #9 x 2" rungs fit into, check the 2" x 4" x 7' cedar * outdoor screws 2 2" L brackets leg layout one more time. Construct the simple jig 1 piece 2" x 6" x 7' waterproof glue * (Specify “clear” or STEP 1. To begin, transfeatured in Figure 4 from cedar * “select tight knot”) fer the measurements for scrap wood. The distance the ladder rungs (Figures between the guides, as using a table saw.) Take out that trusty – noted in the diagram, depends on the 3 and 5) onto the two pieces of 2" x 8" not rusty – old handsaw to finish off the size of the router base and the width of x 7'. (The legs only measure 71", but I rip cut and to cut the notch where the used 7' pieces to compensate for any the dado. In Figure 3, I have included a ladder will rest on the dock (Figure 5). end checking.) Pay close attention to plus or minus symbol in reference to the Clean up the cut with a flat file. knots; you want to avoid any at the top 11 ⁄2" dado width. There is some variation in lumber dimensions, so set the STEP 3. Cut a curve at the top of each of the handle cutouts. Because the ladguide according to the thickness of the leg. A friend of mine has a band saw, so der itself is designed with a 3 ⁄12 pitch to a few minutes spent in his basement was FIGURE 2 FIGURE 1 worth the burger and beer I offered in Dado layout Curved jig for top of ladder leg exchange. Obviously, not everyone has 1 1 7 ⁄2" 7 ⁄2 " a friend with a band saw, so you could try cutting the curves with a jigsaw. cut profile However, as I’ve pointed out in previous router base articles, despite the quality of the saw and/or the blade, a less-than-perpendicbit ular cut is often the result when working in thicker material – frustrating to say x" the least. As an alternative, you might 45˚ cut line want to try making a template fashioned 1 1 out of ⁄8" masonite or ⁄4" plywood 3" the dimension of (Figure 1). Keep in mind that the temthe template will plate provided is only a rough guide; the Use a framing square to be determined by actual width of your working template establish a 3 ⁄12 pitch for this measurement will depend on the size of your router’s the ladder rungs, notch 12" 1 5 ⁄2 " base. Secure the template to the ladder and brace arm. Set the template 1 square on the ladder leg, (secured to leg, then use a plunge router and a ⁄4" measuring 3" in on the ladder leg) 1 or ⁄2" straight bit to cut the curve. tongue of the square Unfortunately, this method works and 12" down on the best only if you own or can borrow a blade. Mark parallel lines ladder leg (secured router with a round base, and it is diffifor all the rung dados. to work bench) cult to find a 1 ⁄4" or 1 ⁄2" bit long enough make getting up and down easier, the to cut all the way through 11 ⁄2" lumber material you’re using for the rungs. Cut 3 rungs must be set on an opposing ⁄12 (on a previous project, a picnic table, I the dados to a depth of 1 ⁄2". A plunge pitch so they’ll remain level (Figure 2). had to finish the job with a jigsaw). This router makes cutting the dados an Remember to reverse the layout on one method does have an advantage over the effortless task, though an ordinary of the leg pieces so that the dados the router will do the job, if more slowly. band saw, though: If the bit is of good rungs fit into will be on the inside of (You will have to reassemble the guide to quality, the finish cut is generally very smooth, so a lot less sanding is required. do the other leg.) each leg, not on the inside of one and STEP 4. Drill 2" holes at A and B in each the outside of the other. (Raise your Drill 2 holes through each dado with hand if you’ve never made that mistake!) leg (Figure 5), using a Forstner bit or a a #8 countersink bit for the #9 x 3" outSTEP 2. Rip the bottom 47" of each leg hole saw. Draw straight lines to connect door screws that will be used to secure to a width of 51 ⁄2". This is easily done the rungs to the ladder legs (Figure 3). the holes in each leg to form 2"-wide with a table saw, but a circular saw and a slots. These will create the handles for STEP 6. At 31 ⁄2" wide, the braces that secure the ladder to the dock looked too guide will work just as well. (Remember climbing up. Cut out the slots either bulky, so I decided to cut the 2" x 4" to stop short of the notch if you are with a jigsaw or by using the router
130 JULY/AUGUST 1998 COTTAGE LIFE
M AT E R I A L S L I S T
18"
24"
#9 x 2" outdoor screw
2" L bracket
71"
spacer block
10" 11 ⁄2" (+ -) x 1 ⁄2" dado
10" holes for #9 x 3" screws for rungs
FIGURE 3 Swim ladder layout (exploded)
COTTAGE LIFE JULY/AUGUST 1998 131
71 ⁄2" the distance between the guides limits the dado (the distance will depend on size of base and width of dado)
5"
A
screws
bit
24"
25"
2"
router base
263 ⁄4"
60˚ 13 ⁄4"
bracket
#9 x 3" screw
dado 2" L bracket 45˚
ladder leg
B
23 ⁄4"
2" 1 ⁄4"
FIGURE 4
guide (clamp one or both guides to ladder leg)
spacer block (2" x 4") attached to ladder
FIGURE 5
Jig to cut ladderrung dados
pieces to length, then rip them to 23 ⁄4" (Figures 3 and 5). A simple butt joint probably would have done the job, but I chose a little fancier, and perhaps more secure, union. The only drawback is that the braces must be the exact length (actually, a little longer wouldn’t be difficult to correct, but a little shorter would cause inappropriate language and hand-wringing). The brace length indicated in Figure 5 should only be considered an approximation; check your own dock for an accurate measurement. Join a brace to each ladder leg using waterproof wood glue and # 9 x 3" outdoor screws. Do not drill the holes for the lag bolts that will attach the other end of the brace to the dock surface until you have the ladder in place on your dock. STEP 7. From the piece of 2" x 6", cut the rungs to a length of 19" (Figure 3). Round the front top edge of each rung and the inside and outside edges of each ladder leg, including the inside of the handrail slot using a router and a 1 ⁄2" roundover bit. Sand. STEP 8. Assemble the ladder, using waterproof glue and #9 x 3" outdoor screws to secure the rungs to the ladder legs. Wipe off any excess glue.
132 JULY/AUGUST 1998 COTTAGE LIFE
x 3" lag screw
51 ⁄2"
Side-view detail
STEP 9. Cut the spacer block (Figures 3, 5, and 6) from the remaining piece of 2" x 4". Drill and countersink attachment holes as per Figure 6. The position of the spacer block between the ladder and the face of your dock will determine how wide it should be. It’s a bit of a fiddle, but since floating docks come in all shapes and sizes, the final size and position of the spacer block must be custom fitted. The position of the spacer block featured here corresponds to the top of the flotation skirt on my dock. STEP 10. Give the ladder a final sanding and finish with varnish or leave au naturel. You might also consider adding some type of tread strip to minimize slipping, as we did. Bend the L brackets
to match the 3 ⁄12 pitch of the ladder, and attach them to the ladder above the notch (Figures 3 and 5), using #9 x 2" outdoor screws. Attach the other end of the L bracket to the dock surface the same way. Fasten the braces to the dock surface with 1 ⁄4" x 3" lag screws. Finally, secure the spacer block to the face of the dock using 1 ⁄4" x 4" lag screws. This ladder is a little heavier but far more attractive than the metal or plastic versions. And the cedar should guarantee it a relatively long life. L Years ago, Wahwashkesh Lake cottager Wayne Lennox could shoot out of the water and onto the dock like an athletic sea lion. These days, he takes the stairs.
FIGURE 6 Spacer block 26 " 18 " ladder leg waterproof glue
countersink 3 ⁄4" hole to accommodate socket head (check diameter of your socket)
#9x3" outdoor screw countersink 1 ⁄2" hole
1 ⁄4"
hole
OCCASION Jumping in the lake is easy enough, but heaving yourself back out again can be a strenuous and ungainly manoeuvre. Here’s a swim ladder for water lovers that guarantees a swift and graceful exit.
B Y WAY N E L E N N O X . PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. MICHAEL LAFOND
128 JULY/AUGUST 1998 COTTAGE LIFE
L
ast year we constructed a new floating cedar dock for the cottage; hardly a sensational event, but significant
nonetheless as the old one had been built by my late father-in-law, Morley Abbott, some 20 years ago. Complete with an old-fashioned ramp, it is a simple and functional dock, as such structures go. Unfortunately, we gave very little consideration to the swim ladder, that most essential of accessories (all of us are well past the age when we could lunge gracefully up onto the dock). On a run into Parry Sound one day, I purchased one made of plastic and metal, which we installed that afternoon. It is certainly practical, but frankly, it just doesn’t fit; unlike the dock, the ladder is not pleasing to look at. The fact is, I had not even considered a wooden ladder until I saw some pictures of a swim ladder submitted by Cottage Life reader and Bayfield Inlet cottager Jim Vernon. It was designed by Jim’s neighbour, Doug Wagener, and built out of Douglas fir salvaged from
Jim’s dock. Besides looking good, the ladder is inclined, a terrific feature for the more COTTAGE LIFE JULY/AUGUST 1998 129
mature cottager. No more flopping around on the edge of the dock as you try to pull yourself out of the lake; with this ladder, you can ascend from the deeps with dignity and grace.
method described above (a simple straight router guide will keep your cuts parallel). 1 ⁄4" x 3" lag screws 2 pieces #9 x 3" STEP 5. Before cutting 2" x 8" x 7' cedar * outdoor screws 1 ⁄4" x 4" lag screws the dados that the ladder 1 piece #9 x 2" rungs fit into, check the 2" x 4" x 7' cedar * outdoor screws 2 2" L brackets leg layout one more time. Construct the simple jig 1 piece 2" x 6" x 7' waterproof glue * (Specify “clear” or STEP 1. To begin, transfeatured in Figure 4 from cedar * “select tight knot”) fer the measurements for scrap wood. The distance the ladder rungs (Figures between the guides, as using a table saw.) Take out that trusty – noted in the diagram, depends on the 3 and 5) onto the two pieces of 2" x 8" not rusty – old handsaw to finish off the size of the router base and the width of x 7'. (The legs only measure 71", but I rip cut and to cut the notch where the used 7' pieces to compensate for any the dado. In Figure 3, I have included a ladder will rest on the dock (Figure 5). end checking.) Pay close attention to plus or minus symbol in reference to the Clean up the cut with a flat file. knots; you want to avoid any at the top 11 ⁄2" dado width. There is some variation in lumber dimensions, so set the STEP 3. Cut a curve at the top of each of the handle cutouts. Because the ladguide according to the thickness of the leg. A friend of mine has a band saw, so der itself is designed with a 3 ⁄12 pitch to a few minutes spent in his basement was FIGURE 2 FIGURE 1 worth the burger and beer I offered in Dado layout Curved jig for top of ladder leg exchange. Obviously, not everyone has 1 1 7 ⁄2" 7 ⁄2 " a friend with a band saw, so you could try cutting the curves with a jigsaw. cut profile However, as I’ve pointed out in previous router base articles, despite the quality of the saw and/or the blade, a less-than-perpendicbit ular cut is often the result when working in thicker material – frustrating to say x" the least. As an alternative, you might 45˚ cut line want to try making a template fashioned 1 1 out of ⁄8" masonite or ⁄4" plywood 3" the dimension of (Figure 1). Keep in mind that the temthe template will plate provided is only a rough guide; the Use a framing square to be determined by actual width of your working template establish a 3 ⁄12 pitch for this measurement will depend on the size of your router’s the ladder rungs, notch 12" 1 5 ⁄2 " base. Secure the template to the ladder and brace arm. Set the template 1 square on the ladder leg, (secured to leg, then use a plunge router and a ⁄4" measuring 3" in on the ladder leg) 1 or ⁄2" straight bit to cut the curve. tongue of the square Unfortunately, this method works and 12" down on the best only if you own or can borrow a blade. Mark parallel lines ladder leg (secured router with a round base, and it is diffifor all the rung dados. to work bench) cult to find a 1 ⁄4" or 1 ⁄2" bit long enough make getting up and down easier, the to cut all the way through 11 ⁄2" lumber material you’re using for the rungs. Cut 3 rungs must be set on an opposing ⁄12 (on a previous project, a picnic table, I the dados to a depth of 1 ⁄2". A plunge pitch so they’ll remain level (Figure 2). had to finish the job with a jigsaw). This router makes cutting the dados an Remember to reverse the layout on one method does have an advantage over the effortless task, though an ordinary of the leg pieces so that the dados the router will do the job, if more slowly. band saw, though: If the bit is of good rungs fit into will be on the inside of (You will have to reassemble the guide to quality, the finish cut is generally very smooth, so a lot less sanding is required. do the other leg.) each leg, not on the inside of one and STEP 4. Drill 2" holes at A and B in each the outside of the other. (Raise your Drill 2 holes through each dado with hand if you’ve never made that mistake!) leg (Figure 5), using a Forstner bit or a a #8 countersink bit for the #9 x 3" outSTEP 2. Rip the bottom 47" of each leg hole saw. Draw straight lines to connect door screws that will be used to secure to a width of 51 ⁄2". This is easily done the rungs to the ladder legs (Figure 3). the holes in each leg to form 2"-wide with a table saw, but a circular saw and a slots. These will create the handles for STEP 6. At 31 ⁄2" wide, the braces that secure the ladder to the dock looked too guide will work just as well. (Remember climbing up. Cut out the slots either bulky, so I decided to cut the 2" x 4" to stop short of the notch if you are with a jigsaw or by using the router
130 JULY/AUGUST 1998 COTTAGE LIFE
M AT E R I A L S L I S T
18"
24"
#9 x 2" outdoor screw
2" L bracket
71"
spacer block
10" 11 ⁄2" (+ -) x 1 ⁄2" dado
10" holes for #9 x 3" screws for rungs
FIGURE 3 Swim ladder layout (exploded)
COTTAGE LIFE JULY/AUGUST 1998 131
71 ⁄2" the distance between the guides limits the dado (the distance will depend on size of base and width of dado)
5"
A
screws
bit
24"
25"
2"
router base
263 ⁄4"
60˚ 13 ⁄4"
bracket
#9 x 3" screw
dado 2" L bracket 45˚
ladder leg
B
23 ⁄4"
2" 1 ⁄4"
FIGURE 4
guide (clamp one or both guides to ladder leg)
spacer block (2" x 4") attached to ladder
FIGURE 5
Jig to cut ladderrung dados
pieces to length, then rip them to 23 ⁄4" (Figures 3 and 5). A simple butt joint probably would have done the job, but I chose a little fancier, and perhaps more secure, union. The only drawback is that the braces must be the exact length (actually, a little longer wouldn’t be difficult to correct, but a little shorter would cause inappropriate language and hand-wringing). The brace length indicated in Figure 5 should only be considered an approximation; check your own dock for an accurate measurement. Join a brace to each ladder leg using waterproof wood glue and # 9 x 3" outdoor screws. Do not drill the holes for the lag bolts that will attach the other end of the brace to the dock surface until you have the ladder in place on your dock. STEP 7. From the piece of 2" x 6", cut the rungs to a length of 19" (Figure 3). Round the front top edge of each rung and the inside and outside edges of each ladder leg, including the inside of the handrail slot using a router and a 1 ⁄2" roundover bit. Sand. STEP 8. Assemble the ladder, using waterproof glue and #9 x 3" outdoor screws to secure the rungs to the ladder legs. Wipe off any excess glue.
132 JULY/AUGUST 1998 COTTAGE LIFE
x 3" lag screw
51 ⁄2"
Side-view detail
STEP 9. Cut the spacer block (Figures 3, 5, and 6) from the remaining piece of 2" x 4". Drill and countersink attachment holes as per Figure 6. The position of the spacer block between the ladder and the face of your dock will determine how wide it should be. It’s a bit of a fiddle, but since floating docks come in all shapes and sizes, the final size and position of the spacer block must be custom fitted. The position of the spacer block featured here corresponds to the top of the flotation skirt on my dock. STEP 10. Give the ladder a final sanding and finish with varnish or leave au naturel. You might also consider adding some type of tread strip to minimize slipping, as we did. Bend the L brackets
to match the 3 ⁄12 pitch of the ladder, and attach them to the ladder above the notch (Figures 3 and 5), using #9 x 2" outdoor screws. Attach the other end of the L bracket to the dock surface the same way. Fasten the braces to the dock surface with 1 ⁄4" x 3" lag screws. Finally, secure the spacer block to the face of the dock using 1 ⁄4" x 4" lag screws. This ladder is a little heavier but far more attractive than the metal or plastic versions. And the cedar should guarantee it a relatively long life. L Years ago, Wahwashkesh Lake cottager Wayne Lennox could shoot out of the water and onto the dock like an athletic sea lion. These days, he takes the stairs.
FIGURE 6 Spacer block 26 " 18 " ladder leg waterproof glue
countersink 3 ⁄4" hole to accommodate socket head (check diameter of your socket)
#9x3" outdoor screw countersink 1 ⁄2" hole
1 ⁄4"
hole
