Textiles Ancient Modern 2017-18.indd

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Year Course Programme 2017–18 Textiles: Ancient to Modern Thursdays, 21 September 2017 – 12 July 2018 (over 3 terms) 11.10–15.30 (Each term includes optional gallery talks, commencing at 10.00 and repeated at 15.30)

In our throw-away world where dress and furnishings quickly go out of fashion and are easily replaced, they are often seen as transient accessories to our lives but throughout history textiles were the most obvious expression of our personal values. Lustrous silk, crisp linen, soft wool and brightly coloured cotton clothe our bodies and decorate our homes. Although patterned textiles are the most intimate form of decorative art because we wear them next to our skin, how well do we know them? Become familiar with textiles by learning about techniques and designs from around the world and exploring how they have been used in Europe to produce an infinite variety of fabrics and patterns. See the different ways in which textiles can be studied and learn about the many skills required to create the sumptuous textiles in the V&A, from enormous tapestries to webs of lace, from glittering embroidery to muted tweeds. Course Director: Jennifer Wearden was Senior Curator of Textiles in the Department of Furniture, Textiles & Fashion until 2005. With experience of the textile industry in Lancashire and 28 years working with the textile collection in the V&A, she has devised and run highly successful courses on textiles and dress for the Museum. She has co-authored several popular V&A books including Samplers (1999), Ottoman Embroidery (2001), Dress in Detail from around the World (2002), Oriental Carpets and their Techniques (2003) and Iranian Textiles (2010).

Other Lecturers: - Dr Susan Kay-Williams, Royal School of Needlework - Dr Gale Crocker-Owen, University of Manchester - Dr Amandine Mérat, British Museum - Dr Wolf Burchard, National Trust - Dr Philip Sykas, Manchester School of Art - Fiona Kerlogue, Horniman Museum - Dr Maria Haywood, Southampton University - Dr Lisa Monas - Sue Pritchard, Royal Museums Greenwich V&A Curators: Anna Jackson, Sau Fau Chang, Divia Patel, Dr Susan North, Dr Lesley Miller and Victoria Bradley

Autumn Term Programme & Dates: Textiles: Ancient to Modern Thursdays, 21 September – 7 December 2017

The World up to 1600 Textiles are so very fragile, even the most sturdy is vulnerable to wear and tear, to damage by insects, by dampness, even by the light we need to see them. They fade, they rot, they are often fabrics of great beauty but they do not last and there is nothing remaining to demonstrate the textile skills of our very ancient ancestors. However, with the development of archaeology and where favourable conditions have allowed textiles to survive, albeit as fragments, we are getting glimpses of what was being woven and worn in more recent times. The first term begins with an introduction to fibres, structures and dyes and, with this foundation in place,

it explores what is known about archaeological textiles from Central Asia and around the Eastern Mediterranean.

21 September Textile Materials 10.45 Introduction to the course Jennifer Wearden 11.10 Skin, Fur and Feathers Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Trees, Grass, Seeds and Minerals Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Animal Fibres Jennifer Wearden

5 October The Ancient and Classical World 11.10 Textiles in Pharaonic Egypt Dr Amandine Mérat 12.30 Dyeing (part 1) Dr Susan Kay-Williams 14:30 Early Textiles and What We Learn from Them Dr Margarita Gleba

28 September Textile Techniques 11.10 Spinning and Looping Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Introduction to Weaving (part 1) Jennifer Wearden 14:30 Introduction to Weaving (part 2) and ways to study textiles Jennifer Wearden

These textiles were of great importance and were traded across the Classical world, setting the stage for a theme which will be explored through the rest of the course: how technologies and designs spread around the globe. Moving into the Middle Ages, our knowledge of textiles increases from our study of documents, paintings and actual pieces and we see a second theme emerging, how textiles were used to express status and prestige.

12 October Asia and the Eastern Mediterranean 11.10 Late Antique Egyptian Textiles Dr Amandine Mérat 12.30 The Silk Road Dr Susan Whitfield 14.30 Textiles in the Byzantine World Jennifer Wearden

19 October The ‘Dark Ages’ 11.10 Textile fragments from the Far North Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Anglo-Saxon Textiles and the Bayeux Tapestry Professor Gale R Owen-Crocker 14.30 Textiles as Women’s Work Professor Gale R Owen-Crocker 26 October Textile Trade 11.10 Trading in fur in the early Middle Ages Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Early Indian Textiles and Trade Dr Steven Cohen 14.30 Cloth in England’s Later Medieval Trade Professor Wendy Childs 2 November The Middle Ages: Part 1 10.00 Gallery Talk: Early Textiles in the V&A 11.10 Early Islamic Silks and Embroideries Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Textiles and Clothing in London 1150–1450 Frances Pritchard 14.30 Medieval Tapestries Jennifer Wearden 15.30 Gallery Talk: Early Textiles in the V&A 9 November The Middle Ages: Part 2 10.00 Gallery Talk: Tapestries 11.10 Church Vestments Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Opus Anglicanum Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Italian Medieval Silks Dr Lisa Monnas 15.30 Gallery Talk: Tapestries

16 November Textiles for Display 11.10 Eastern Carpets in Western Paintings Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Between Court and City: Tapestries of the Burgundian Dominions 1363–1477 Dr Katherine Wilson 14.30 Textiles and Tournaments under the Tudor Kings Professor Maria Hayward 23 November Cloth of Gold and Carpet Techniques 11.10 All That Glitters: Cloth of Gold as a Vehicle for Display: 1400–1600 Dr Lisa Monnas 12.30 Carpet Knotting Techniques Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Designing a Carpet Jennifer Wearden 30 November The Renaissance 10.00 Gallery Talk: Carpets 11.10 The Epitome of Elegance: Renaissance Velvets Dr Lisa Monnas 12.30 Textiles in Renaissance Paintings Dr Lisa Monnas 14.30 Renaissance Transformations: Italian Textiles and Interiors Dr Jane Bridgeman 15.30 Gallery Talk: Carpets 7 December East and West 11.10 An Introduction to Ming Textiles: Their History and Design Jacqueline Simcox 12.30 Pre-Hispanic textiles in South America Helen Wolfe 14.30 Textiles and the Cut of Clothes Jennifer Wearden

Spring Term Programme & Dates: Textiles: Ancient to Modern Thursdays, 11 January – 22 March 2018

The Age of Exploitation: 1500–1800 This term covers three centuries during which European knowledge of the world expanded and empires rose and prospered. The major themes of this term are exploration and exploitation, with growing awareness of new natural resources, new techniques and new designs. England began to play a major role, developing a remarkable artistic personality beautifully expressed in its embroidery. It was not averse to adopting ideas from other cultures or poaching skilled workmen from other countries. It was a period of great rivalry between countries for trade and for the control of foreign lands.

It was also a period of great social and economic change. The introduction of cotton in the eighteenth century and the development of textile printing revolutionised the use of patterned textiles, making them no longer the preserve of the super-rich. We begin to know more about the textile possessions of moderately affluent people and more about domestic needlework, not only embroidery but patchwork and quilting, and we begin to see the effects of the Industrial Revolution.

11 January 16th and 17th Century England 11.10 Textiles and Dress at the Tudor Court Professor Maria Hayward 12.30 Embroidered with Woodbine and Eglantine – Elizabethan Textile Furnishings Dr Gillian White 14.30 The Eye of the Needle Dr Mary Brooks

25 January The 17th Century – Domestic, Royal and Personal 11.10 The effects of the Reformation on the nature of Domestic Decoration and Furnishings Dr Tara Hamling 12.30 The Weaving of Power: Charles Le Brun and the Gobelins Tapestry Manufactory Dr Wolf Burchard 14.30 Textiles, Clothing, Cleanliness and Health Dr Susan North

18 January The 16th and 17th Centuries Overseas 11.10 Textiles of Mughal India Dr Steven Cohen 12.30 The Shah’s Wardrobe: Dress Culture in 17th Century Iran Jennifer Scarce 14.30 Suleyman the Magnificent and Ottoman Textiles Jennifer Wearden

1 February Asia and Europe 11.10 Indian Chintz Rosemary Crill 12.30 Crewel work and Chinoiserie Jennifer Wearden 14:30 Qing Textiles Jacqueline Simcox

8 February Hand-Made Textiles 11.10 Lace Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Knitting Dr Susan North 14.30 Tapestries Jennifer Wearden 15 February 18th Century Silks 10.00 Gallery Talk: 17th Century Embroidery 11.10 The Painted Designs of James Leman and Anna Maria Garthwaite Jennifer Wearden 12.30 18th Century French Silks Dr Lesley Miller  14:30 Huguenots and Spitalfield Silks Mary Schoeser 15.30 Gallery Talk: 17th Century Embroidery 22 February 18th Century 11.10 Trading Textiles Around the World Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Foundling Textiles Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Rivalry between the English and Dutch East India Companies in the Textile Trade Dr Chris Nierstrasz 1 March 18th Century 10.00 Gallery Talk: 18th Century Silks 11. 10 Barbara Johnson’s Album Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Fabrics of 18th Century Fashion Dr Susan North 14.30 Dyeing (part 2) Dr Susan Kay-Williams 15.30 Gallery Talk: 18th Century Silks

8 March Printing and Dyeing 11.10 Block-Printing and William Kilburn Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Plate Printing, roller-printing, discharge printing Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Indigo Dr Jenny Balfour-Paul 15 March Textiles in Other Places 10.00 Gallery Talk: Printed Textiles 11.10 Resist-dyeing: Bandhana and Ikat Rosemary Crill 12.30 Textiles in Colonial America Jennifer Wearden 14.30 American Quilts Sue Prichard 15.30 Gallery Talk: Printed Textiles 22 March Needlework 11.10 Principles of Embroidery Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Greek Island Embroidery Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Embroidered Samplers Jennifer Wearden

Summer Term Programme & Dates: Textiles: Ancient to Modern Thursdays, 19 April – 12 July 2018

The Age of Mastery: 1750–the present The final term goes back to the middle of the 18th century, begins with the Industrial Revolution and the massproduction of textiles and then considers how several influential designers reacted against it, leading to the Arts and Crafts Movement and Art Nouveau. A constant supply of new textile designs was required to meet the expectations of a growing consumer society and in their patterns we can trace how Europe was changing socially, scientifically and politically up to the outbreak of the Second World War.

Against this background we see how ethnographic studies brought nonEuropean textile traditions to the attention of designers and how this influenced and enriched commercial and craft production. Modern manufacturing processes have favoured printing, but hand-woven and embroidered textiles and supremely skilled craftsmen have ensured that some textiles remain true works of art.

19 April Neo-Classicism 11.10 The Neo-Classical Revolution in Textiles and Dress Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Muslin and Whitework Jennifer Wearden 14:30 Kashmir Shawls in the West Rosemary Crill

3 May New Movements 11.10 Gothic Revival Mary Schoeser 12.30 William Morris and the Arts & Crafts Movement in Britain and the US Dr Jennifer Harris 14:30 The Arts & Crafts Movement on the Continent Dr Jennifer Harris

26 April The Industrial Revolution 11.10 The Industrial Revolution Dr Gillian Cookson 12.30 Manufacturers’ and Merchants’ Pattern Books Dr Philip Sykas 14.30 Romanticism and European ‘Peasant’ Textiles Jennifer Wearden

10 May Eastern Influences and Art Nouveau 10.00 Gallery Talk: The Nineteenth Century part 1 11.10 Japanese Textiles Anna Jackson 12.30 Art Nouveau Textiles Dr Clare Rose 14:30 Silver Studio Textiles Zoe Hendon 15:30 Gallery Talk: The Nineteenth Century part 1

17 May Changing Times 11.10 Furnishings: 1850–1930 Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Fashions and Textiles: 1900–1939 Jennifer Wearden 14.30 The Board of Trade Design Registers: 1839–1991 Dr Dinah Eastop

14 June Britain in the 1950s 11.10 Zika Ascher and Tibor Reichs Sue Prichard 12.30 Textiles and Horrockses Fashions Dr Christine Boydell 14.30 The Festival of Britain, Lucienne Day and ‘50s design Mary Schoeser

24 May Beyond Europe: Part 1 10.00 Gallery Talk: The Nineteenth Century part2 11.10 Mexican and Guatemalan Textiles Chloë Sayer 12.30 20th century Indian Textiles Divia Patel 14:30 African Textiles Dr Malika Kraamer 15.30 Gallery Talk: The Nineteenth Century part2

21 June The Last Fifty Years 11.10 The Fabric of Pop Michael Regan 12.30 Modern Techniques in Textile Production Jennifer Wearden 14.30 Scandinavian Textiles Mary Schoeser

31 May Beyond Europe: Part 2 11.10 South East Asian Textiles in the V&A Sau Fong Chan 12.30 Batik in Java and Sumatra Dr Fiona Kerlogue 14.30 The Islamic World Jennifer Wearden 7 June Britain 11.10 The Needlework Development Scheme Jennifer Wearden 12.30 British Textile Trade with Africa Dr Nicola Stylianour 14.30 British Craft Weavers and Printers Mary Schoeser

28 June 20th Century Hand-made Textiles 11.10 Tapestries Jennifer Wearden 12.30 Couture Embroidery: Worth Onwards tbc 14.30 Humphries Silk Weaving Richard Humphries 5 July Designers 11.10 Designing Textiles for Liberty Emma Mawston 12.30 Designing carpets for the World John Bain 14.30 Artist and Designer Ptolemy Mann 12 July Art Textiles 11.10 Artist Textiles Victoria Bradley 12.30 Echoes of the Past Jan Beaney and Jean Littlejohn 14.30 Story Telling through Textiles Jennifer Wearden

The V&A reserves the right to alter the programme at short notice if circumstances make it necessary. If you are booking for a particular day please confirm the programme of the day with the V&A booking office a few days in advance.

Course Fees £2150 per year, £1935 over 60s, £1600 concessions £910 per term, £819 over 60s, £640 concessions £80 per day, £72 over 60s, £57 concessions External visits may incur additional costs. This Year Course does not have a Certificate Option. Booking and Further Information How to Book Book online at www.vam.ac.uk/courses or call 020 7942 2000 Please note term tickets will be released 4 weeks before the start of each term and day tickets will be released 2 weeks before the start of each term. Please note the full fee applies to V&A Members, patrons, and students. This year we have introduced an over 60s discount for all courses. Concessions are also available for ES40 holders and registered disabled people. A carer may accompany a registered disabled course student for free, please inform staff when booking. A limited number of ‘Early Booker Discounts’ will be available for each course. This entitles you to 20% off year courses. They will be allocated on a first come first served basis and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Call 020 7942 2000 to claim this offer. Refunds will only be given in cases of extenuating circumstances, such as illness or other personal difficulty, and are not guaranteed. A refund must be applied for no less than 14 days after an event and if it is approved, 90% of the price of the ticket will be refunded. 10% is retained for ad ministration costs.