The woman behind the clothes
04 PROFILE
The woman behind the clothes What people wear in a film or a commercial can really add to their character. ZOE CHRISTODOULIDES meets an Emmy-nominated costume designer
Perceptive: Jo Katsaras in her Limassol studio Photos Christos Theodorides
“D Emmy nominated: Jo’s colourful creations for The No.1 Ladies Detective Agency and Juliette Binoche in In My Country
id you wake up a little late today?” asks a bubbly Jo Katsaras sitting in her beautiful, sun-drenched Limassol studio. “A little,” I reply - albeit timidly - startled by her odd and forthright question. “Oh yes, I can tell by the way you’ve tied your hair back. You were in a hurry but you don’t really care if you leave the house not looking perfectly styled.” Her head tilts to one side as if waiting for a reaction. I then encourage the bold costume designer to tell me more about my personality as she curiously looks me up and down. “You must be outgoing, fun to be around, not scared to experiment and have an eye for detail. Oh and that ring you’re wearing; it shows that you’re very creative. It must have an unusual story behind it.”
I look down at my hand remembering that what I’m wearing is a one-off piece purchased from a market in Hong Kong. But Jo seems to already know that it was found on faraway travels. “People don’t seem to realise that being a costume designer is a lot about psychology and figuring out characters.” And this isn’t just any costume designer. The South African Cypriot has spent half her life jetting around between movie and commercial sets dressing famous characters. Having styled the likes of Samuel L Jackson, Juliette Binoche, Michael Douglas, Val Kilmer, Diane Kruger and many more celebs, she certainly seems to know the tricks of the trade. Her achievements speak for themselves. Having recently been nominated for an Emmy for costume design for The No.1 Ladies Detective
SUNDAY MAIL• February 13, 2011
Agency, she was also nominated last February by the Costume Designers Guild of America for ‘Outstanding Contemporary Costumes’. Hardly surprising then that the 43year-old can’t think of any other job that she’d rather be doing. Having jetted into her home country for a couple of weeks, Jo confesses to being a bit of nomad as she goes back and forth between South Africa, Australia, LA and Cyprus. “My mother keeps on telling me I’m collecting passports,” she says with a chuckle. Born and raised in Limassol until the age of five, her family’s move to South Africa meant she grew up in the vibrant 70s scene of Johannesburg fi lled with plenty of cross cultural influences. Showcasing a collection of fabulous vintage clothes here in Cyprus, her pretty, retro-inspired studio is fi lled with racks upon racks of colourful attire. Jo herself confesses to feeling a little under the weather due a sudden bout of flu and takes a quick peek at herself in the mirror. “God look at that hair!” she belts out before rushing to a glass cabinet and jazzing up her cropped dark locks with a feathered hair piece. Dressed head to toe in black, she wraps up with a flowery 60s trench coat. Apologetic about not being dressed in a snazzier outfit, she fi nally settles down with a cup of tea as if having given in to the fact that she’s just not in the mood for dolling up. Pointing to the rails of clothes that line the studio, Jo explains that they have been brought over from Africa following a discovery that she made on the set of a Nigerian commercial. “There were heaps of these clothes everywhere all with their original price tags on,” she says. “I’ve got 6,000 pieces in total and I’ll also be exhibiting in Sydney and LA.” Little surprise her intense passion for clothes goes back to the day when she was just a tot. Sewing since the age of eight, the designer confesses her mum would buy her clothes that she would consequently chop up and turn into something rather different. It wasn’t until much later that she discovered designing for the screen was her forte. And apparently it all came totally naturally. “I believe that your
Clothes and psychology: Jo Katsaras
people again and it’s just heart wrenching.” Her mind seems to be wander off before she mentions Juliette Binoche. “Our connection never went away. When I was in Australia recently I got a message from her saying ‘have dinner with me.’ Intense short friendships on set can sometimes last a lifetime.” Saying that Binoche is one of the favourite celebrities that she’s worked with, the designer describes her as “down to earth” with laughter so rich and contagious that she wishes she could bottle it and take it with her everywhere she goes.
A
t this point Jo’s 21-yearold son suddenly walks into the room. “Thane has travelled the world with me. When he was young an au pair came with us and then we had a tutor.” Once again, none of it seems to have tired her, nor does she wish she led a more settled lifestyle. On the contrary, she seems happy enough to have had the chance to wander the globe as a single mum with her child. “I think he has really itchy feet because of it,” she says. “I just love travelling. Big cities are always tiresome so I prefer rural barren locations where I can have my cup of
‘Television commercials are often the hardest to do because there’s only a few seconds to communicate what a person is all about’ career just fi nds you. When I was at arts school in Johannesburg I had a teacher who rang me one day asking if I wanted to do a Cadbury’s commercial. And I absolutely loved it.” Starting off with a local commercial before climbing the ropes and designing for fi lms like like John Boorman’s In My Country, surely she must have experienced some difficulties along the way? Jo shakes her head. “My work is like play. You know when life just flows?” she asks while pausing and squinting a little as if trying to rack her brain to think of hard times. “Look, sometimes the locations can be extremely tough, out in the middle of nowhere.” And then there’s Jo’s version of PMS: “post movie stress.” “The work on set is so intense and you’re with the crew for about six to eight months, but when it’s over you’ll probably never see these
February 13, 2011 • SUNDAY MAIL
tea watching the sunrise.” So what’s her all time favourite location? Jo doesn’t seem able to answer but finally concludes that South Africa is brilliant because of its diversity, with a lot of European commercials actually shot there. I wonder how she thinks her life might have turned out if she had grown up in Cyprus. “To be honest, I believe that what’s for you won’t go by you. I may have ended up studying in London and then started a career from there.” As Jo makes use of the term ‘career’, I wonder what her daily job entails. The process starts off for Jo the moment she’s handed a script, as she brings each character to life in her mind. Then comes plenty of research depending how historic the fi lm is, topped off by presentation boards for the director. “I like working in collaboration with the actors
because I’ve simply got to make that character work for them,” she says. Then when all the costumes have been designed a team of seamstresses and milliners come on board to help with the task ahead. When fi lming begins, the job involves plenty of hours on set with her right hand woman called the “wardrobe mistress”. “My job is to make sure that the lead actors are looking fabulous in whatever role they are in,” Jo tells me. “People might not think it but even the way someone wears their scarf says a lot about them.” Spending a lot of time studying human behaviour and analysing what an outfit says about a given individual, the question that springs to her mind is always the same: “What’s behind the clothes?” Television commercials are often the hardest to do because there’s only a few seconds to communicate what a person is all about. “What does a person wear when they are depressed for example? Some people actually try harder to put on some sort of façade with plenty of bright colours but others will be grubby and not really bother with themselves much at all.” The hardest character she has ever had to dress? A psychopath for In My Country. “What on earth does a psychopath wear?” Of course, there’s no right or wrong answer but her job means doing everything she can to make any character seem real. With all this talk of clothes our conversation naturally drifts towards wardrobes, shopping and top designers. Her ultimate fashion icon is Coco Channel and she’s a fi rm believer that a classic pair of sexy black heels should be in every woman’s cupboard. “Style has nothing to do with money and it’s not about being dressed in Gucci from head to toe. Style is about what brings out different parts of your personality.” Seemingly a fan of glamour and streamlined cuts, she believes Angelina Jolie and Victoria Beckham are the two celebs that carry themselves the most beautifully. But when it comes to her own beloved item of clothing, she adores nothing more than dressing down in a classic, pure cotton, white t-shirt. So costume designers don’t always have to look the part then? “Oh I’m just human,” she replies. “And I’ll sometimes wear sneakers and jeans like everyone else.” How about her favourite trends? “Ah the sixties were absolutely great - a simple line, sexy and chic clothing.” She then confesses that she absolutely hates what she deems to be “80s trash”. Speaking of fashion from the past, the designer has a major soft spot for period movies “that really stretch her imagination.” And for those that have yet to realise it, the difference between styling people in real life and dressing them for fi lm is immense. “We’re creating fantasy and entertainment. Fashion and costume are two entirely different things. For me a beautiful costume is about character, not being stylish and beautiful.” So what’s next in this fantasy world? “Well, I’d like to win an Emmy now and then naturally one day an Oscar!” she professes with a beaming smile. Seems like the boundaries between fantasy and reality are blurring with every step she takes.
people
05
Baghdatis win Congratulations to Cypriot tennis player Marcos Baghdatis for knocking Andy Murray out of the first round of a tournament in Holland. If only we could see more of that.
Pension reform It had to happen, or at least we would like to think so. Finance minister Charilaos Stavrakis this week told the House that a bill to reform the pensions scheme for civil servants will be submitted in the next few months. Civil servants currently get higher pensions than private sector workers and get two if they held two positions.
Archbishop move Visiting ‘Elder’ Archbishop Desmond Tutu who during a visit this week urged the head of the Cyprus Church, Archbishop Chrysostomos, to play the role of Saint Barnabas in Cyprus and “facilitate” efforts for a solution on the island. Good luck with that one.
Special needs care President of the Pancyprian Federation of Associations of Parents of Children with Special Needs, Christos Avgoustinos who brought attention this week to the plight of children with special needs once they reach adulthood. Facilities on the island for those over the age of 21 are almost non existent.
Time to act Good luck to the members of Cyprus Act who were yesterday launching their campaign against illegal parking, starting with those who leave their cars in disabled bays at Jumbo toy store. The group was due to have hit the store yesterday and stuck large, rather abusive, stickers on the cars of those in question.
Vietnamese agents The government this week announced a ban on the entry of domestic workers from Vietnam after many of them are claiming asylum shortly before their contract is up. However the migration department said the move is aimed to tackle the ring of agents bringing them here, who make up to €6,000 from each one.
Fire starters The Fire Services this week announced most fires are caused by human factors – either through ignorance or by arsonists. Surely it can’t be that hard to work out if you start a fire there is a good chance of it getting out of control.
Jewellery heist The jewellery shop manager who orchestrated a robbery on the shop he works at in Nicosia - even tying his hands and feet up and waiting in the loft for over two hours – reportedly in a bid to blame outsiders for money missing from the shop’s tills.
The woman behind the clothes What people wear in a film or a commercial can really add to their character. ZOE CHRISTODOULIDES meets an Emmy-nominated costume designer
Perceptive: Jo Katsaras in her Limassol studio Photos Christos Theodorides
“D Emmy nominated: Jo’s colourful creations for The No.1 Ladies Detective Agency and Juliette Binoche in In My Country
id you wake up a little late today?” asks a bubbly Jo Katsaras sitting in her beautiful, sun-drenched Limassol studio. “A little,” I reply - albeit timidly - startled by her odd and forthright question. “Oh yes, I can tell by the way you’ve tied your hair back. You were in a hurry but you don’t really care if you leave the house not looking perfectly styled.” Her head tilts to one side as if waiting for a reaction. I then encourage the bold costume designer to tell me more about my personality as she curiously looks me up and down. “You must be outgoing, fun to be around, not scared to experiment and have an eye for detail. Oh and that ring you’re wearing; it shows that you’re very creative. It must have an unusual story behind it.”
I look down at my hand remembering that what I’m wearing is a one-off piece purchased from a market in Hong Kong. But Jo seems to already know that it was found on faraway travels. “People don’t seem to realise that being a costume designer is a lot about psychology and figuring out characters.” And this isn’t just any costume designer. The South African Cypriot has spent half her life jetting around between movie and commercial sets dressing famous characters. Having styled the likes of Samuel L Jackson, Juliette Binoche, Michael Douglas, Val Kilmer, Diane Kruger and many more celebs, she certainly seems to know the tricks of the trade. Her achievements speak for themselves. Having recently been nominated for an Emmy for costume design for The No.1 Ladies Detective
SUNDAY MAIL• February 13, 2011
Agency, she was also nominated last February by the Costume Designers Guild of America for ‘Outstanding Contemporary Costumes’. Hardly surprising then that the 43year-old can’t think of any other job that she’d rather be doing. Having jetted into her home country for a couple of weeks, Jo confesses to being a bit of nomad as she goes back and forth between South Africa, Australia, LA and Cyprus. “My mother keeps on telling me I’m collecting passports,” she says with a chuckle. Born and raised in Limassol until the age of five, her family’s move to South Africa meant she grew up in the vibrant 70s scene of Johannesburg fi lled with plenty of cross cultural influences. Showcasing a collection of fabulous vintage clothes here in Cyprus, her pretty, retro-inspired studio is fi lled with racks upon racks of colourful attire. Jo herself confesses to feeling a little under the weather due a sudden bout of flu and takes a quick peek at herself in the mirror. “God look at that hair!” she belts out before rushing to a glass cabinet and jazzing up her cropped dark locks with a feathered hair piece. Dressed head to toe in black, she wraps up with a flowery 60s trench coat. Apologetic about not being dressed in a snazzier outfit, she fi nally settles down with a cup of tea as if having given in to the fact that she’s just not in the mood for dolling up. Pointing to the rails of clothes that line the studio, Jo explains that they have been brought over from Africa following a discovery that she made on the set of a Nigerian commercial. “There were heaps of these clothes everywhere all with their original price tags on,” she says. “I’ve got 6,000 pieces in total and I’ll also be exhibiting in Sydney and LA.” Little surprise her intense passion for clothes goes back to the day when she was just a tot. Sewing since the age of eight, the designer confesses her mum would buy her clothes that she would consequently chop up and turn into something rather different. It wasn’t until much later that she discovered designing for the screen was her forte. And apparently it all came totally naturally. “I believe that your
Clothes and psychology: Jo Katsaras
people again and it’s just heart wrenching.” Her mind seems to be wander off before she mentions Juliette Binoche. “Our connection never went away. When I was in Australia recently I got a message from her saying ‘have dinner with me.’ Intense short friendships on set can sometimes last a lifetime.” Saying that Binoche is one of the favourite celebrities that she’s worked with, the designer describes her as “down to earth” with laughter so rich and contagious that she wishes she could bottle it and take it with her everywhere she goes.
A
t this point Jo’s 21-yearold son suddenly walks into the room. “Thane has travelled the world with me. When he was young an au pair came with us and then we had a tutor.” Once again, none of it seems to have tired her, nor does she wish she led a more settled lifestyle. On the contrary, she seems happy enough to have had the chance to wander the globe as a single mum with her child. “I think he has really itchy feet because of it,” she says. “I just love travelling. Big cities are always tiresome so I prefer rural barren locations where I can have my cup of
‘Television commercials are often the hardest to do because there’s only a few seconds to communicate what a person is all about’ career just fi nds you. When I was at arts school in Johannesburg I had a teacher who rang me one day asking if I wanted to do a Cadbury’s commercial. And I absolutely loved it.” Starting off with a local commercial before climbing the ropes and designing for fi lms like like John Boorman’s In My Country, surely she must have experienced some difficulties along the way? Jo shakes her head. “My work is like play. You know when life just flows?” she asks while pausing and squinting a little as if trying to rack her brain to think of hard times. “Look, sometimes the locations can be extremely tough, out in the middle of nowhere.” And then there’s Jo’s version of PMS: “post movie stress.” “The work on set is so intense and you’re with the crew for about six to eight months, but when it’s over you’ll probably never see these
February 13, 2011 • SUNDAY MAIL
tea watching the sunrise.” So what’s her all time favourite location? Jo doesn’t seem able to answer but finally concludes that South Africa is brilliant because of its diversity, with a lot of European commercials actually shot there. I wonder how she thinks her life might have turned out if she had grown up in Cyprus. “To be honest, I believe that what’s for you won’t go by you. I may have ended up studying in London and then started a career from there.” As Jo makes use of the term ‘career’, I wonder what her daily job entails. The process starts off for Jo the moment she’s handed a script, as she brings each character to life in her mind. Then comes plenty of research depending how historic the fi lm is, topped off by presentation boards for the director. “I like working in collaboration with the actors
because I’ve simply got to make that character work for them,” she says. Then when all the costumes have been designed a team of seamstresses and milliners come on board to help with the task ahead. When fi lming begins, the job involves plenty of hours on set with her right hand woman called the “wardrobe mistress”. “My job is to make sure that the lead actors are looking fabulous in whatever role they are in,” Jo tells me. “People might not think it but even the way someone wears their scarf says a lot about them.” Spending a lot of time studying human behaviour and analysing what an outfit says about a given individual, the question that springs to her mind is always the same: “What’s behind the clothes?” Television commercials are often the hardest to do because there’s only a few seconds to communicate what a person is all about. “What does a person wear when they are depressed for example? Some people actually try harder to put on some sort of façade with plenty of bright colours but others will be grubby and not really bother with themselves much at all.” The hardest character she has ever had to dress? A psychopath for In My Country. “What on earth does a psychopath wear?” Of course, there’s no right or wrong answer but her job means doing everything she can to make any character seem real. With all this talk of clothes our conversation naturally drifts towards wardrobes, shopping and top designers. Her ultimate fashion icon is Coco Channel and she’s a fi rm believer that a classic pair of sexy black heels should be in every woman’s cupboard. “Style has nothing to do with money and it’s not about being dressed in Gucci from head to toe. Style is about what brings out different parts of your personality.” Seemingly a fan of glamour and streamlined cuts, she believes Angelina Jolie and Victoria Beckham are the two celebs that carry themselves the most beautifully. But when it comes to her own beloved item of clothing, she adores nothing more than dressing down in a classic, pure cotton, white t-shirt. So costume designers don’t always have to look the part then? “Oh I’m just human,” she replies. “And I’ll sometimes wear sneakers and jeans like everyone else.” How about her favourite trends? “Ah the sixties were absolutely great - a simple line, sexy and chic clothing.” She then confesses that she absolutely hates what she deems to be “80s trash”. Speaking of fashion from the past, the designer has a major soft spot for period movies “that really stretch her imagination.” And for those that have yet to realise it, the difference between styling people in real life and dressing them for fi lm is immense. “We’re creating fantasy and entertainment. Fashion and costume are two entirely different things. For me a beautiful costume is about character, not being stylish and beautiful.” So what’s next in this fantasy world? “Well, I’d like to win an Emmy now and then naturally one day an Oscar!” she professes with a beaming smile. Seems like the boundaries between fantasy and reality are blurring with every step she takes.
people
05
Baghdatis win Congratulations to Cypriot tennis player Marcos Baghdatis for knocking Andy Murray out of the first round of a tournament in Holland. If only we could see more of that.
Pension reform It had to happen, or at least we would like to think so. Finance minister Charilaos Stavrakis this week told the House that a bill to reform the pensions scheme for civil servants will be submitted in the next few months. Civil servants currently get higher pensions than private sector workers and get two if they held two positions.
Archbishop move Visiting ‘Elder’ Archbishop Desmond Tutu who during a visit this week urged the head of the Cyprus Church, Archbishop Chrysostomos, to play the role of Saint Barnabas in Cyprus and “facilitate” efforts for a solution on the island. Good luck with that one.
Special needs care President of the Pancyprian Federation of Associations of Parents of Children with Special Needs, Christos Avgoustinos who brought attention this week to the plight of children with special needs once they reach adulthood. Facilities on the island for those over the age of 21 are almost non existent.
Time to act Good luck to the members of Cyprus Act who were yesterday launching their campaign against illegal parking, starting with those who leave their cars in disabled bays at Jumbo toy store. The group was due to have hit the store yesterday and stuck large, rather abusive, stickers on the cars of those in question.
Vietnamese agents The government this week announced a ban on the entry of domestic workers from Vietnam after many of them are claiming asylum shortly before their contract is up. However the migration department said the move is aimed to tackle the ring of agents bringing them here, who make up to €6,000 from each one.
Fire starters The Fire Services this week announced most fires are caused by human factors – either through ignorance or by arsonists. Surely it can’t be that hard to work out if you start a fire there is a good chance of it getting out of control.
Jewellery heist The jewellery shop manager who orchestrated a robbery on the shop he works at in Nicosia - even tying his hands and feet up and waiting in the loft for over two hours – reportedly in a bid to blame outsiders for money missing from the shop’s tills.
