Chacraraju and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Javier ...

Chacraraju and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Javier Donés, Carlos Miguel Gallego, Ignacio H ernández, Francisco Pavón, Miguel Angel Vidal and me as leader. Our average age was only 21 years. From August 18 to 21, Gallego, H ernández and Vidal made the second direct south face ascent of Chacraraju Oeste alpine-style. (First climbed by John Bouchard and Marie-Odile Meunier, 1977. See A.A.J., 1978, pages 486-7.) The 2500-foot climb was very difficult with ice walls up to 90°. On August 28 and 29 I climbed the west ridge of Huandoy Este solo. That same month this route had been tried unsuccessfully by a Swiss and two Spanish groups. The first 350 feet of rotten rock were the most difficult. It was there earlier this year that one of the Swiss was killed. H ernández and Pavón climbed Chopicalqui by its west ridge from August 27 to 29. The other climbs were all solo: Yanapaccha Oeste via the north face by Donés on August 27; Pisco Oeste via the southwest face by Donés on August 28; Pisco Este via the southwest face by me on August 27; Pisco Oeste via the southwest face on August 9 by Donés and on August 27 by Pavón. A n t o n io T raba d o ,

Club Alpino Maliciosa, Spain