Cutting Instructions for Summer Lovin Background Fabric (2 Yards
Cutting Instructions for Summer Lovin
Background Fabric (2 Yards): Cut (3) strips 24”x 40” or Width of Fabric
Sub Cut first 24”x40” strip into: (2) 12”x40” strips Sub Cut each 12”x40” strip into: (1) 12” Block & (1) 12”x24” Block Ending up with the following blocks: (1) 12”x24” Seagulls Block (1) 12”x24 Surfboards Block (1) 12”x12” Beach Ball Block (1) 12”x12 Lighthouse Block Sub Cut second 24”x40” strip into: (1) 24 x 24” Sandcastle Block (1) 12”x12” Sail Boat Block (1) 12”x12” Sunglasses Block Sub Cut Third 24”x40” strips into: (1) 24”x12” Bicycle Block (1) 24”x12” Dolphin Block Starch each separate block with Terial Magic: Follow manufactures instructions. Press / iron each block.
Fusible Woven Interfacing: (4 yards of Fusible Woven Interfacing by OESD or SHAPE FLEX by Pellon 101)
• • • • •
Cut the Fusible Woven Interfacing into the sections shown above. Center the interfacing (it is smaller than the fabric) to the back side of each starched (with Terial Magic) block. Spray with water: Use your hands to smooth out the moistened interfacing over the fabric Set the steam iron on the center area of the interfacing and hold the iron long enough to seal the two layers together, but not so long that it burns! Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric If “air bubbles” are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again
Continue with the Fabric Preparation Instructions
Fabric Preparation Instructions
Instructions for all Blocks (blocks should already have the interfacing applied to the back of them) Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer: • Cut the Polymesh large enough to have a 3” border around the fabric block. You may need to piece (use adhesive spray) two sections of the Polymesh to get the size needed. • Make sure the pieces of Polymesh overlap each other by 3”-4”. • Center the interfaced fabric block on the pieced Polymesh. Use adhesive spray to fuse the Polymesh to the block. The fabric should be smooth and lay flat. Each fabric block will have a 3-4” border of Polymesh surrounding it. This border is important when hooping!
Marking the Blocks: Use an erasable pen but do not use an air erasable pen. • Mark with thin clean lines. Do not go over the lines multiply times!! • On the front (right side) of each block, draw a center crosshair the full length and width of the fabric. The lines are perpendicular (90) to each Other. • Draw an additional line 5” above & below the center horizontal line on the rectangle shaped blocks. No need for extra lines on the square blocks. • Draw an additional line to the left & right of the center vertical line on the Sandcastle block only. • Write the word “Top” at the top of each fabric block: refer to the cutting instructions for the “Top of Fabric”. Sew the Stabilizer to the Blocks •
Sew (using a walking/dual feed foot) close to the edge (¼”) completely around the edge of the fabric. Use a normal stitch length and regular sewing thread. This will secure the stabilizer to the fabric and reduce stretching during embroidery. The two fabrics must be smooth and lay flat without puckers. (Sandcastle block shown)
The Solid Black lines on the fabric area in the picture: Represent the drawn center crosshair lines and the lines 5” above & below the center horizontal line & 5” to the left & right of center. The lines are perpendicular to each other. Dotted lines in the picture: represent the stitches around the edge of the fabric securing the fabric to the stabilizer using a normal stitch length and regular sewing thread.
Repeat this process with each block. Hang the cut, stabilized, & marked blocks from a pant hanger and bring to class. Border, binding, & batting are not needed in class. In class we will embroider the Sandcastle Block first.
Background Fabric (2 Yards): Cut (3) strips 24”x 40” or Width of Fabric
Sub Cut first 24”x40” strip into: (2) 12”x40” strips Sub Cut each 12”x40” strip into: (1) 12” Block & (1) 12”x24” Block Ending up with the following blocks: (1) 12”x24” Seagulls Block (1) 12”x24 Surfboards Block (1) 12”x12” Beach Ball Block (1) 12”x12 Lighthouse Block Sub Cut second 24”x40” strip into: (1) 24 x 24” Sandcastle Block (1) 12”x12” Sail Boat Block (1) 12”x12” Sunglasses Block Sub Cut Third 24”x40” strips into: (1) 24”x12” Bicycle Block (1) 24”x12” Dolphin Block Starch each separate block with Terial Magic: Follow manufactures instructions. Press / iron each block.
Fusible Woven Interfacing: (4 yards of Fusible Woven Interfacing by OESD or SHAPE FLEX by Pellon 101)
• • • • •
Cut the Fusible Woven Interfacing into the sections shown above. Center the interfacing (it is smaller than the fabric) to the back side of each starched (with Terial Magic) block. Spray with water: Use your hands to smooth out the moistened interfacing over the fabric Set the steam iron on the center area of the interfacing and hold the iron long enough to seal the two layers together, but not so long that it burns! Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric If “air bubbles” are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again
Continue with the Fabric Preparation Instructions
Fabric Preparation Instructions
Instructions for all Blocks (blocks should already have the interfacing applied to the back of them) Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer: • Cut the Polymesh large enough to have a 3” border around the fabric block. You may need to piece (use adhesive spray) two sections of the Polymesh to get the size needed. • Make sure the pieces of Polymesh overlap each other by 3”-4”. • Center the interfaced fabric block on the pieced Polymesh. Use adhesive spray to fuse the Polymesh to the block. The fabric should be smooth and lay flat. Each fabric block will have a 3-4” border of Polymesh surrounding it. This border is important when hooping!
Marking the Blocks: Use an erasable pen but do not use an air erasable pen. • Mark with thin clean lines. Do not go over the lines multiply times!! • On the front (right side) of each block, draw a center crosshair the full length and width of the fabric. The lines are perpendicular (90) to each Other. • Draw an additional line 5” above & below the center horizontal line on the rectangle shaped blocks. No need for extra lines on the square blocks. • Draw an additional line to the left & right of the center vertical line on the Sandcastle block only. • Write the word “Top” at the top of each fabric block: refer to the cutting instructions for the “Top of Fabric”. Sew the Stabilizer to the Blocks •
Sew (using a walking/dual feed foot) close to the edge (¼”) completely around the edge of the fabric. Use a normal stitch length and regular sewing thread. This will secure the stabilizer to the fabric and reduce stretching during embroidery. The two fabrics must be smooth and lay flat without puckers. (Sandcastle block shown)
The Solid Black lines on the fabric area in the picture: Represent the drawn center crosshair lines and the lines 5” above & below the center horizontal line & 5” to the left & right of center. The lines are perpendicular to each other. Dotted lines in the picture: represent the stitches around the edge of the fabric securing the fabric to the stabilizer using a normal stitch length and regular sewing thread.
Repeat this process with each block. Hang the cut, stabilized, & marked blocks from a pant hanger and bring to class. Border, binding, & batting are not needed in class. In class we will embroider the Sandcastle Block first.
