Beguiling Bordeaux
travel
The world’s wine capital shows that it has more to offer than starry vineyards. By Chek Wong
A
sense of inevitability foreshadowed the planning of a recent wine trip with friends and family. While polite consideration was given to the bucolic vineyards of Burgundy, and the wild, herb-filled landscape of Provence, it was a foregone conclusion that we would end up in Bordeaux. It was a perfectly understandable decision. Bordeaux remains a necessary pilgrimage to be considered a true oenophile. I wondered, though, how the destination would fare with children and novices to the wine world. Would there be enough attractions in this city to sustain their interest? The story of Bordeaux, capital of the identically-named wine region, is one of constant re-invention. Known during the Roman occupation as Burdigala, winemaking here dates back to the 4th century. The city has endured through multiple wars and a transition from British to French rule, but its wines have always found a ready market, thanks to Bordeaux’s status as a hub of trade. The nearby Médoc, today the source of some of the world’s finest wines, originally consisted of marshy lowlands better known for its corn fields. This changed with the arrival of the Dutch in the 17th century, who drained the marshlands
122 epicureasia.com
Hands on at Côté Cours Museums abound in Bordeaux
Ferris wheel at the Place des Quinconces
photo of place de la bourse bordeaux-france dreamstime other photos ong wee teck
Beguiling Bordeaux
to reveal gravelly deposits well-suited to the planting of vineyards. The establishment of a thriving merchant class soon followed, which has evolved into today’s intricate network of courtiers and négociants who sell wine on behalf of the producers. An idiosyncrasy of Bordeaux is that you cannot buy a single bottle of wine at the famed châteaux. The aristocrats who own them prefer to delegate the complex business of allocation, marketing, sales and distribution to the merchants, freeing up their time to concentrate on running the estate. As a modern city, Bordeaux has all the amenities you would expect; a wide range of accommodation, luxury boutiques and first-rate gastronomic restaurants. Getting here has never been easier, thanks to frequent flights and high-speed rail options. Come 2017, a new line will shorten travelling time by train between Paris and Bordeaux by a third. A major revitalisation carried out by local officials has removed industrial-era grime, abandoned warehouses, and injected new life into the city. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the Miroir d’Eau reflecting pool, a 3,500 square meter skin of water that captures all the glory of the 18th century Place de la Bourse which stands across. Next to it, the riverside lined with fragrant lavender bushes makes for a pleasant evening stroll, where we saw teenagers practicing bicycle tricks and couples locked arm in arm. Those looking to stock up their wine cellars will not be left wanting as there are numerous merchants in the city centre. My favourite is L’Intendant, located in Bordeaux’s “Golden Triangle” opposite the Grand Theatre. The centrepiece of this shop is a spiral staircase that winds past thousands of carefully stacked wines. The lower floors stock, everyday drinking wines and Cru Bourgeois, while the upper levels offer classified growths arranged by region. Overwhelmed by the number of options available? The discreet and knowledgeable staff will offer suggestions based on your budget and preferences.
Fun for the whole family As we explored Bordeaux further, we began to discover how welcoming the city has become to visitors. Fascinating museums and monuments abound, wine schools offer short introductory courses and the Place des Quinconces offers a funfair with great views atop a Ferris wheel. We opted to go for a cannelé making class at Côté Cours, the cooking school attached to luxury hotel Le Saint-James Bouliac. This bellshaped pastry is a specialty of Bordeaux, made with egg yolk, butter and dark rum. Chef Célia Girard guided our young charges through the recipe, while the adults took advantage of every distraction to ply the batter with more rum. Our deception was soon discovered as the excess rum evaporated in the oven, leading our eyes to start watering and Girard to hurriedly open the windows, muttering “Too much alcohol!” While we waited for our coffee-coloured handiworks to cool down, we were brought on a tour of the Michelin-starred restaurant, where we ooh-ad and aah-ed at the Willy Wonkaesque dishes being prepared by the kitchen staff. An hour’s drive from the city lies Arcachon Bay, where
activities such as cycling, bird-watching and thalassotherapy (seawater-based spa treatments) can be enjoyed. The bay is home to a thriving oyster industry and an important supplier of spats to farms around France. The plump bivalves found here are mostly of the Crassostrea gigas (Pacific oyster) variety, which has supplanted indigenous oysters that died out due to disease and overfishing. Oysters are graded by weight from 0 to 5 in decreasing size, with oysters graded 3 or 4 considered the best for eating raw. Abutting Arcachon Bay is one of the most magnificent natural sights in France. The Dune du Pilat, a massive sand dune, spans nearly three kilometres and soars to a height of 110 metres. This makes it the tallest sand dune in Europe, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and a forest on the east. It is a surreal sight stepping through the pine trees to be confronted by this silicate monstrosity. The climb up would be arduous but for a considerately placed staircase that leads to sweeping vistas of the surrounding area. Descending the dune was easier – we took our cue from other visitors and slipped and slid our way down while whooping with delight.
epicureasia.com 123
travel
A epicure’s delight Food is central to the Bordeaux experience. Platters of Arcachon Bay oysters, Bazas beef and Pauillac lamb showcase the abundance of local produce. Expect hearty and flavourful meals, a style that provides a match for the region’s rich and complex wines. There are the pinnacles of fine dining, such as Gordon Ramsay’s Le Pressoir d’Argent and Joël Robuchon’s La Grande Maison, and inventive up-and-comers such as Dan, an Asian-French fusion restaurant run by chef Jérôme Billot. In terms of setting though, it’s hard to beat a vineyard-ensconced restaurant out in the fresh countryside. In the commune of Saint-Émilion, Les Belles Perdrix lies within the grounds of Château Troplong Mondot, a wine estate holding the lofty ranking of premier grand cru classé where you can catch a glimpse of horses working in the fields. Here we had the three-course weekday lunch menu which changes according to season and represents astounding value at just €39. A perfectly executed starter of sweet red mullet and smoked pollack immediately raised our expectations for the rest of the meal. This was followed by a hay-smoked skirt of Limousin beef that was meltingly tender and gorgeously pink throughout. A well-portioned dessert of vanilla ice-cream and Grand Cru chocolate completed the trifecta. Our appetites sated, we took the opportunity to wander the streets of Saint-Émilion. The cobblestone-paved streets and slower pace of life in this medieval town offer a distinct contrast to the vibrancy of the region’s capital. I was elated to rediscover a small shop selling the local version of macarons that I had frequented on a previous trip. The flat pastries found here bear only a passing resemblance to the macarons in Paris, which have a sweet creamy filling in the middle. Developed by Ursuline nuns in the early 17th century, Saint-Émilion macarons are reminiscent of a soft, chewy cookie, with a pronounced almond flavour.
Restaurant staff at Le Saint-James Bouliac
Arcachon Bay oysters
The quaint town of Saint-Émilion is postcardperfect
124 epicureasia.com
Laurent Benoit from Château Angélus pouring the 2015 vintage
View of Bordeaux with the Monument aux Girondins in the foreground
The Monolithic Church at Saint-Émilion provides a dramatic backdrop
Vinous charms Visitors to the Bordeaux wine region may deplore the formality of booking appointments with the major châteaux, a necessary trial to gaining entrance. As rigid as the system is, it does provide the châteaux with the ability to schedule and manage the many visitors eager to pay homage to their hallowed halls, and it is not difficult to arrange a visit even during the peak harvest months. Once past the gates, the hosts are warm and friendly, without a trace of snobbishness even though their wines may cost a fortune. Marie, our guide at Château Mouton Rothschild, was an expert hand at entertaining children, devising a game that involved them searching through Mouton’s famed art gallery for specific paintings used as labels for the grand vin. We were amused to hear the strains of Singapore’s national anthem playing as we approached the Saint-Émilion estate Château Angélus, courtesy of a set of newly-installed golden bells crowning the château. Our
host Laurent Benoit provided what must be the world’s most expensive grape juice for the children to taste made from justcrushed fruit. Wine tourism is big business in Bordeaux. Approximately 5 million visitors visit annually, with an increasing number hailing from the Far East. The escalating prices of the top wines have allowed first growths such as Mouton to be even more stringent in their search for quality. “We want Mouton to have a typicity of the vintage, and also typicity of Mouton,” explained Marie. “It’s a real battle, making the blend. Last year (in 2014) it took the winemakers and consultants two weeks to make a decision, and they tasted from 9pm to 2am.” As impressive as the wines are the architectural marvels that house the winemaking facilities, many of which have been constructed or renovated over the last decade. At Château Cheval Blanc, PR manager Stephanie Duhar pointed out the rooftop garden on the modernistic building, a design feature that (besides offering a gorgeous view) contributes to temperature control inside the winery. Instead of large oak barrels, we see rows of aesthetically curved cement vats designed by architect Christian de Portzamparc. There are more tanks than vineyard plots, allowing the château precise plot-by-plot vinification. “It is an amazing luxury”, commented Stephanie. Other châteaux have maintained their traditional trappings, such as Château HautBrion where the interior is filled with elaborate marble plinths and 19th century portraits. It has a palatial feel, which is no
Vineyard at Château Haut-Brion
surprise as the owner is an actual prince from Luxembourg. Bordeaux has previously come under criticism for a stuffy image and stratospherically-priced wines. On our sojourn though, we discovered a multi-layered Bordeaux that caters not just for millionaire wine lovers, but also for the average visitor seeking adventure, good food, and yes, something nice to drink. Each visit here reveals a different facet, which explains why even as a frequent guest I am still drawn to its charms. Our younger travellers may not have fully grasped the significance of this historic region, or the toil and far-reaching ambitions of the majestic châteaux we visited, but I can only hope that the wonderment that appeared on their cherubic faces would endure into adulthood.
e
epicureasia.com 125
The world’s wine capital shows that it has more to offer than starry vineyards. By Chek Wong
A
sense of inevitability foreshadowed the planning of a recent wine trip with friends and family. While polite consideration was given to the bucolic vineyards of Burgundy, and the wild, herb-filled landscape of Provence, it was a foregone conclusion that we would end up in Bordeaux. It was a perfectly understandable decision. Bordeaux remains a necessary pilgrimage to be considered a true oenophile. I wondered, though, how the destination would fare with children and novices to the wine world. Would there be enough attractions in this city to sustain their interest? The story of Bordeaux, capital of the identically-named wine region, is one of constant re-invention. Known during the Roman occupation as Burdigala, winemaking here dates back to the 4th century. The city has endured through multiple wars and a transition from British to French rule, but its wines have always found a ready market, thanks to Bordeaux’s status as a hub of trade. The nearby Médoc, today the source of some of the world’s finest wines, originally consisted of marshy lowlands better known for its corn fields. This changed with the arrival of the Dutch in the 17th century, who drained the marshlands
122 epicureasia.com
Hands on at Côté Cours Museums abound in Bordeaux
Ferris wheel at the Place des Quinconces
photo of place de la bourse bordeaux-france dreamstime other photos ong wee teck
Beguiling Bordeaux
to reveal gravelly deposits well-suited to the planting of vineyards. The establishment of a thriving merchant class soon followed, which has evolved into today’s intricate network of courtiers and négociants who sell wine on behalf of the producers. An idiosyncrasy of Bordeaux is that you cannot buy a single bottle of wine at the famed châteaux. The aristocrats who own them prefer to delegate the complex business of allocation, marketing, sales and distribution to the merchants, freeing up their time to concentrate on running the estate. As a modern city, Bordeaux has all the amenities you would expect; a wide range of accommodation, luxury boutiques and first-rate gastronomic restaurants. Getting here has never been easier, thanks to frequent flights and high-speed rail options. Come 2017, a new line will shorten travelling time by train between Paris and Bordeaux by a third. A major revitalisation carried out by local officials has removed industrial-era grime, abandoned warehouses, and injected new life into the city. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the Miroir d’Eau reflecting pool, a 3,500 square meter skin of water that captures all the glory of the 18th century Place de la Bourse which stands across. Next to it, the riverside lined with fragrant lavender bushes makes for a pleasant evening stroll, where we saw teenagers practicing bicycle tricks and couples locked arm in arm. Those looking to stock up their wine cellars will not be left wanting as there are numerous merchants in the city centre. My favourite is L’Intendant, located in Bordeaux’s “Golden Triangle” opposite the Grand Theatre. The centrepiece of this shop is a spiral staircase that winds past thousands of carefully stacked wines. The lower floors stock, everyday drinking wines and Cru Bourgeois, while the upper levels offer classified growths arranged by region. Overwhelmed by the number of options available? The discreet and knowledgeable staff will offer suggestions based on your budget and preferences.
Fun for the whole family As we explored Bordeaux further, we began to discover how welcoming the city has become to visitors. Fascinating museums and monuments abound, wine schools offer short introductory courses and the Place des Quinconces offers a funfair with great views atop a Ferris wheel. We opted to go for a cannelé making class at Côté Cours, the cooking school attached to luxury hotel Le Saint-James Bouliac. This bellshaped pastry is a specialty of Bordeaux, made with egg yolk, butter and dark rum. Chef Célia Girard guided our young charges through the recipe, while the adults took advantage of every distraction to ply the batter with more rum. Our deception was soon discovered as the excess rum evaporated in the oven, leading our eyes to start watering and Girard to hurriedly open the windows, muttering “Too much alcohol!” While we waited for our coffee-coloured handiworks to cool down, we were brought on a tour of the Michelin-starred restaurant, where we ooh-ad and aah-ed at the Willy Wonkaesque dishes being prepared by the kitchen staff. An hour’s drive from the city lies Arcachon Bay, where
activities such as cycling, bird-watching and thalassotherapy (seawater-based spa treatments) can be enjoyed. The bay is home to a thriving oyster industry and an important supplier of spats to farms around France. The plump bivalves found here are mostly of the Crassostrea gigas (Pacific oyster) variety, which has supplanted indigenous oysters that died out due to disease and overfishing. Oysters are graded by weight from 0 to 5 in decreasing size, with oysters graded 3 or 4 considered the best for eating raw. Abutting Arcachon Bay is one of the most magnificent natural sights in France. The Dune du Pilat, a massive sand dune, spans nearly three kilometres and soars to a height of 110 metres. This makes it the tallest sand dune in Europe, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and a forest on the east. It is a surreal sight stepping through the pine trees to be confronted by this silicate monstrosity. The climb up would be arduous but for a considerately placed staircase that leads to sweeping vistas of the surrounding area. Descending the dune was easier – we took our cue from other visitors and slipped and slid our way down while whooping with delight.
epicureasia.com 123
travel
A epicure’s delight Food is central to the Bordeaux experience. Platters of Arcachon Bay oysters, Bazas beef and Pauillac lamb showcase the abundance of local produce. Expect hearty and flavourful meals, a style that provides a match for the region’s rich and complex wines. There are the pinnacles of fine dining, such as Gordon Ramsay’s Le Pressoir d’Argent and Joël Robuchon’s La Grande Maison, and inventive up-and-comers such as Dan, an Asian-French fusion restaurant run by chef Jérôme Billot. In terms of setting though, it’s hard to beat a vineyard-ensconced restaurant out in the fresh countryside. In the commune of Saint-Émilion, Les Belles Perdrix lies within the grounds of Château Troplong Mondot, a wine estate holding the lofty ranking of premier grand cru classé where you can catch a glimpse of horses working in the fields. Here we had the three-course weekday lunch menu which changes according to season and represents astounding value at just €39. A perfectly executed starter of sweet red mullet and smoked pollack immediately raised our expectations for the rest of the meal. This was followed by a hay-smoked skirt of Limousin beef that was meltingly tender and gorgeously pink throughout. A well-portioned dessert of vanilla ice-cream and Grand Cru chocolate completed the trifecta. Our appetites sated, we took the opportunity to wander the streets of Saint-Émilion. The cobblestone-paved streets and slower pace of life in this medieval town offer a distinct contrast to the vibrancy of the region’s capital. I was elated to rediscover a small shop selling the local version of macarons that I had frequented on a previous trip. The flat pastries found here bear only a passing resemblance to the macarons in Paris, which have a sweet creamy filling in the middle. Developed by Ursuline nuns in the early 17th century, Saint-Émilion macarons are reminiscent of a soft, chewy cookie, with a pronounced almond flavour.
Restaurant staff at Le Saint-James Bouliac
Arcachon Bay oysters
The quaint town of Saint-Émilion is postcardperfect
124 epicureasia.com
Laurent Benoit from Château Angélus pouring the 2015 vintage
View of Bordeaux with the Monument aux Girondins in the foreground
The Monolithic Church at Saint-Émilion provides a dramatic backdrop
Vinous charms Visitors to the Bordeaux wine region may deplore the formality of booking appointments with the major châteaux, a necessary trial to gaining entrance. As rigid as the system is, it does provide the châteaux with the ability to schedule and manage the many visitors eager to pay homage to their hallowed halls, and it is not difficult to arrange a visit even during the peak harvest months. Once past the gates, the hosts are warm and friendly, without a trace of snobbishness even though their wines may cost a fortune. Marie, our guide at Château Mouton Rothschild, was an expert hand at entertaining children, devising a game that involved them searching through Mouton’s famed art gallery for specific paintings used as labels for the grand vin. We were amused to hear the strains of Singapore’s national anthem playing as we approached the Saint-Émilion estate Château Angélus, courtesy of a set of newly-installed golden bells crowning the château. Our
host Laurent Benoit provided what must be the world’s most expensive grape juice for the children to taste made from justcrushed fruit. Wine tourism is big business in Bordeaux. Approximately 5 million visitors visit annually, with an increasing number hailing from the Far East. The escalating prices of the top wines have allowed first growths such as Mouton to be even more stringent in their search for quality. “We want Mouton to have a typicity of the vintage, and also typicity of Mouton,” explained Marie. “It’s a real battle, making the blend. Last year (in 2014) it took the winemakers and consultants two weeks to make a decision, and they tasted from 9pm to 2am.” As impressive as the wines are the architectural marvels that house the winemaking facilities, many of which have been constructed or renovated over the last decade. At Château Cheval Blanc, PR manager Stephanie Duhar pointed out the rooftop garden on the modernistic building, a design feature that (besides offering a gorgeous view) contributes to temperature control inside the winery. Instead of large oak barrels, we see rows of aesthetically curved cement vats designed by architect Christian de Portzamparc. There are more tanks than vineyard plots, allowing the château precise plot-by-plot vinification. “It is an amazing luxury”, commented Stephanie. Other châteaux have maintained their traditional trappings, such as Château HautBrion where the interior is filled with elaborate marble plinths and 19th century portraits. It has a palatial feel, which is no
Vineyard at Château Haut-Brion
surprise as the owner is an actual prince from Luxembourg. Bordeaux has previously come under criticism for a stuffy image and stratospherically-priced wines. On our sojourn though, we discovered a multi-layered Bordeaux that caters not just for millionaire wine lovers, but also for the average visitor seeking adventure, good food, and yes, something nice to drink. Each visit here reveals a different facet, which explains why even as a frequent guest I am still drawn to its charms. Our younger travellers may not have fully grasped the significance of this historic region, or the toil and far-reaching ambitions of the majestic châteaux we visited, but I can only hope that the wonderment that appeared on their cherubic faces would endure into adulthood.
e
epicureasia.com 125
