LYMAN MINIATURE FOLDING UTILITY LAMP
LYMAN MINIATURE FOLDING UTILITY LAMP
116mm W x 48mm D x 38mm H It fits in a shirt pocket
Better than using a flashlight when working inside a control box.
This picture was taken in the dark with the lamp 7 feet from the picture. (My P51 RC model airplane on take off)
The LED lamp head can rotate 270° so as the it can point up, down and horizontally.
At this position the lamp head is 250mm from the surface.
His & Hers 1
This picture shows printing all the parts at once. They are printed on a 3D printer. I have LED lighting connect with the fan that is cooling the upper part of my DIY hot end extruder. You need a 12” x 12” bed to print all the parts at once. Many of the parts shown below are what I had on hand, so the parts are designed to fit these parts. You should print the parts first and obtain the parts that will fit. It is about 3.5 hour print.
20
7 8
1
2
5
10 12 19
11 18 17
4
15,16 14
3
9 6
All printed parts are printed using my extruded ABS filament from the Lyman/Mulier Filament Extruder V5: 1. Lamp Base printed 2. Base Lid printed 3. Left Arm printed 4. Middle Arm printed 5. Right Arm printed 6. Wire Cover Strips printed 7. LED Case printed 8. LED Case Lid printed 9. 400mm of 2 wire cord 10. Push button switch (eBay) 11. 4 each 4mm heat inserts (McMaster Carr) 12. 2 each brass strips (32mm x 6mm x 1mm, self made)
13. 1 each spring ( 25mm x 8mm) 14. 6 each flat head screws #3 x 5/16” (U.S. dimensions) 15. 2 each M3 x 12mm cap screws 16. 1 each M3 x 14mm cap screws 17. 1 each M3 x 45mm +/- cap screw 18. 10 each 5mm LED lights 19. 10 each 3V x 22mm button batteries (eBay) 20. 1 each lead weight or what ever The holes in the Base Lid will need to be countersunk. Some dressing will also need to done.
2
The 3mm holes should be resized using a drill press for good alignment. I insert a long 3M cap screw in the hole and attached the insert. Then I head the insert with a butane torch and pull it into the printed part. You may want to try a trial part first. After the parts are assembled I back out the M3 cap screws and put a drop of Red Threadlock in each insert and then tighten up till the tension is sufficient to hold the rotation of the arms firm.
After the insert is cool I ream them with a M3 tap.
This view shows the LED lights soldered together. I got 100 of these lights on eBay for about $8.00. I also fried a dozen getting it right. They are soldered in series, + to –. Each light requires 3V in this layout, thus it takes 10 3V batteries for 10 lights. These I also got sometime ago, on eBay at a low cost.
I tested each LED with 3V using a variable power supply. As each LED is soldered I would test again, 2 with 6V from the power supply, 3 with 9V up to 30V for 10 LED’s. My first test fried the two lights. I finally figured out the problem, turn on the power supply before connecting the leads. When turning on the power supply I discovered that there was small surge in the voltage, enough to fry the LED.
Final light test after the cover lid is attached.
3
After the inserts are set and the arms are attached with the cap screws I loosen the cap screws and apply a drop of RED Threadlock in the basss insert and retighten the cap screws with enough tension so the assembly holds it set position. The hole in the middle chamber holds the spring for battery tension. The hole in the right chamber receives the button switch.
This picture shows the negative brass strip inserted through the slot in the partition. Pre solder the negative wire to the strip before inserting. I secured it there with hot melt glue. The lead weight is also set with some hot melt glue.
This view shows the positive brass strip with the push button soldered to the positive wire. Again I secured the switch with hot melt glue. The batteries are set with the positive face against the spring . Ten batteries for 10 LED lights.
It is done. I left it on for 30 hours and then checked the battery voltage and they showed 30V, down from new at 33.2V. I would assume they should last for about 60 hours. Next I will make one with 38 LED lights and connect it to the house 110V outlet for a side table reading lamp. I might have to put a dimmer on it.
4
116mm W x 48mm D x 38mm H It fits in a shirt pocket
Better than using a flashlight when working inside a control box.
This picture was taken in the dark with the lamp 7 feet from the picture. (My P51 RC model airplane on take off)
The LED lamp head can rotate 270° so as the it can point up, down and horizontally.
At this position the lamp head is 250mm from the surface.
His & Hers 1
This picture shows printing all the parts at once. They are printed on a 3D printer. I have LED lighting connect with the fan that is cooling the upper part of my DIY hot end extruder. You need a 12” x 12” bed to print all the parts at once. Many of the parts shown below are what I had on hand, so the parts are designed to fit these parts. You should print the parts first and obtain the parts that will fit. It is about 3.5 hour print.
20
7 8
1
2
5
10 12 19
11 18 17
4
15,16 14
3
9 6
All printed parts are printed using my extruded ABS filament from the Lyman/Mulier Filament Extruder V5: 1. Lamp Base printed 2. Base Lid printed 3. Left Arm printed 4. Middle Arm printed 5. Right Arm printed 6. Wire Cover Strips printed 7. LED Case printed 8. LED Case Lid printed 9. 400mm of 2 wire cord 10. Push button switch (eBay) 11. 4 each 4mm heat inserts (McMaster Carr) 12. 2 each brass strips (32mm x 6mm x 1mm, self made)
13. 1 each spring ( 25mm x 8mm) 14. 6 each flat head screws #3 x 5/16” (U.S. dimensions) 15. 2 each M3 x 12mm cap screws 16. 1 each M3 x 14mm cap screws 17. 1 each M3 x 45mm +/- cap screw 18. 10 each 5mm LED lights 19. 10 each 3V x 22mm button batteries (eBay) 20. 1 each lead weight or what ever The holes in the Base Lid will need to be countersunk. Some dressing will also need to done.
2
The 3mm holes should be resized using a drill press for good alignment. I insert a long 3M cap screw in the hole and attached the insert. Then I head the insert with a butane torch and pull it into the printed part. You may want to try a trial part first. After the parts are assembled I back out the M3 cap screws and put a drop of Red Threadlock in each insert and then tighten up till the tension is sufficient to hold the rotation of the arms firm.
After the insert is cool I ream them with a M3 tap.
This view shows the LED lights soldered together. I got 100 of these lights on eBay for about $8.00. I also fried a dozen getting it right. They are soldered in series, + to –. Each light requires 3V in this layout, thus it takes 10 3V batteries for 10 lights. These I also got sometime ago, on eBay at a low cost.
I tested each LED with 3V using a variable power supply. As each LED is soldered I would test again, 2 with 6V from the power supply, 3 with 9V up to 30V for 10 LED’s. My first test fried the two lights. I finally figured out the problem, turn on the power supply before connecting the leads. When turning on the power supply I discovered that there was small surge in the voltage, enough to fry the LED.
Final light test after the cover lid is attached.
3
After the inserts are set and the arms are attached with the cap screws I loosen the cap screws and apply a drop of RED Threadlock in the basss insert and retighten the cap screws with enough tension so the assembly holds it set position. The hole in the middle chamber holds the spring for battery tension. The hole in the right chamber receives the button switch.
This picture shows the negative brass strip inserted through the slot in the partition. Pre solder the negative wire to the strip before inserting. I secured it there with hot melt glue. The lead weight is also set with some hot melt glue.
This view shows the positive brass strip with the push button soldered to the positive wire. Again I secured the switch with hot melt glue. The batteries are set with the positive face against the spring . Ten batteries for 10 LED lights.
It is done. I left it on for 30 hours and then checked the battery voltage and they showed 30V, down from new at 33.2V. I would assume they should last for about 60 hours. Next I will make one with 38 LED lights and connect it to the house 110V outlet for a side table reading lamp. I might have to put a dimmer on it.
4
