Sia Kangri and Baltoro Kangri III. Our expedition consisted of S ...

Sia Kangri and Baltoro Kangri III. O ur expedition consisted of S. H iraoka, S. Etori, S. U em ura, T. M izuoshi, T. K urita, K. M iyashita, T. K obayashi, Dr. T. Takahashi, J. Futagam i and me as leader. H aving left Skardu on M ay 21 Kobayashi, Takahashi, M izukoshi and I made a round trip to the head of the Chogo Lungm a Glacier, w ent up the K ero L ungm a G lacier, over the N ushik La and the H ispar Pass and down the Biafo G lacier, w here we were joined on June 21 at Askole by the other members. W e then w ent up the Baltoro and A bruzzi Glaciers to the foot of Sia K angri. On Sia K angri we followed G.O. D yhrenfurth’s route. Base Cam p was at 16,500 feet, Cam p I on the Conway Saddle at 19,400 feet, Camps II and III at 21,100 and 22,375 feet. On July 30 Kobayashi, M iyashita, M izukoshi, Takahashi, Futagam a, high-altitude porter G ohar Shah and I reached the summ it (24,350 feet) of Sia K angri. On A ugust 4 Kobayashi and Futagam i got to the top of Baltoro K angri III (23,885 fee t), the highest in the Baltoro K angri group. W e descended the Siachen G lacier, w ent past the T eram K angri III expedition’s Base Cam p to the junction of the Lolofond G lacier on A ugust 12 and descended to G om a on the 15th. R y u j i H a y a s h i b a r a , Japanese A lpine Club