Staining Red Oak
Publication #CF14 8/14
A Few Words About Safety, the Law and Advice Many of the finishing products on the market (including the ones we use and recommend) are considered hazardous chemicals, and must be handled and used with care. Refer to the product label for specific information, and stringently follow those guidelines. Manufacturer’s websites are also an excellent source of information on both safety and finishing techniques. Good ventilation is absolutely essential during finishing and drying. You should take regular breaks away from the work area to get some truly fresh air. Before undertaking a project of this magnitude, make sure you’re physically able to do so. If you have chronic lung problems, shaky hands or poor vison you may be better off having someone else finish your cabinetry for you. A finishing project will take a while, so make sure you’ve got enough time to see it through before starting. The instructions below will provide you with drying times. Allow about 5 to 10 minutes of brush time apiece for every coat on each side of your cabinet doors or drawer fronts, and about half that for wiping and sanding. Be advised that some states have outlawed oil-based stains and finishes, so you may have to purchase water-based products instead. Your local Sherwin Williams store can provide more information about the best options in your state. If you don’t have a Sherwin Williams store nearby, go to the paint store used by local painting contractors; they also should be able to provide helpful, accurate information. We’ve found that the big-box stores are a very poor choice for buying any sort of cabinetry or finishing products – their products are low quality, their prices are high and their employees lack knowledge and experience. Finally, the old saying “the job’s not done till the mess is cleaned up” certainly applies to finishing cabinetry. Please dispose of leftover stain, varnishes, rags, etc. in a legal, safe and courteous manner. It’s important to note that rags soaked with thinner, polyurethane or stain can spontaneously combust, and must not be left lying around or thrown in with other trash. We advise placing them into a container (like an old coffee can) filled with water as soon as you’re done with them, then sealing and disposing of the whole container properly.
Page 1 of 6
What You’ll Need: 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7) 8) 9) 10) 11) 12)
Scissors Several drop cloths or newspapers or cardboard A cleaning brush or soft hand broom Several clean, soft rags Mineral Spirits 220 grit sandpaper A high quality natural-fiber 2” angle brush Cans or blocks to support the doors Several stir sticks Wood stain Polyurethane Metal can with a lid
Receiving and Unpacking your order 1) Look each box over carefully for any signs of damage in transit. If you see any evidence of it (like holes in the box or crushed corners) notify the driver and ask him to note it on the bill of lading BEFORE signing for the shipment. Taking a cell phone picture while the driver’s still there is very helpful too. If any of your product is damaged, please notify us immediately. 2) Make sure the box is sitting correctly (not upside down or on its side), and use a pair of scissors to cut the tape holding the main flap down. 3) Open the box and use scissors to cut the plastic straps holding the doors to the cardboard base. 4) Carefully cut the clear plastic wrap, making sure the point of the scissors doesn’t scratch or gouge the wood. 5) Remove each door from the stack, starting from the top and working your way down. 6) Examine each one carefully to make sure that it’s undamaged, and the correct style, material and size. 7) If you don’t plan on finishing your cabinet doors and drawer fronts immediately, then re-stack them as they were. Secure the stack so it won’t shift, close the box with the tabs tucked in like it came, and seal the flaps with tape. Store with the top up, out of the elements, and preferably where humidity and temperature don’t vary widely. It’s not a good idea to leave unfinished cabinetry in the open for more than a few days – it will absorb moisture from the air, and the grain will begin to “pop”, necessitating hand-sanding prior to finishing.
NEVER expose unfinished cabinetry to direct sunlight – it can cause the panels to shift and corner joints to loosen.
Page 2 of 6
Prepare a Workspace Finishing needs to take place in a location that’s suitable for the task, and safe for you. If the outside temperature is above 60 degrees, a garage or carport is fine, so long as the humidity is low (below 70%) and the cabinetry won’t be exposed to direct sunlight at any time. We don’t advocate finishing outdoors, because airborne particles (from dust to bird droppings) could blemish the surface, and the morning dew will interfere with overnight drying. It’s a good idea to keep pets out of your work area; their dander and hair can mar the finish. In cooler weather, you can finish your doors inside your home. Good ventilation is essential for your safety, and for quick, even drying. If you’re finishing in your kitchen or bathroom, run the vent fan continuously. In other rooms, open a window a few inches and set the fan on your HVAC unit to run constantly. If the humidity’s high, it’s best to wait a few days until it has dropped. Doors that are finished in high humidity will have moisture trapped in the wood, which can lead to problems later. Cover your entire work table with several layers of newspaper, or a good drop cloth. A similar covering should be placed on the floor around the table. It’s wise to prepare for the possibility that a can of stain or polyurethane will spill at some point in the process. The doors will need to be supported up off of the table to allow for a uniform finish on the edges. We’ve found that unopened tuna cans are ideal for this; they’re readily available in most homes and won’t tip if the table gets jarred. Turn them upsidedown so the rounded bottom is in contact with the wood instead of the sharper top rim. Make sure there’s plenty of light in your workspace too.
Clean the Cabinetry Thoroughly Woodworking factories are full of sawdust, and your doors and drawer fronts will have it on them when they arrive. Use a soft brush to sweep it off, taking care to clean the grooves and corners of the millwork. It’s best to do this away from your work area, so the sawdust doesn’t wind up in the polyurethane when it’s wet. Next, use a slightly dampened cloth to wipe down the entire door or drawer front, again paying particular attention to the grooves and corners. Place the doors on the cans or blocks, and allow at least an hour for any remaining moisture to evaporate.
If you’re using an oil-based stain (like Sherwin Williams Wood Classics line) then you’re ready to stain. If you’re using an alcohol or water-based stain, the doors will need to be treated with a coat of conditioner before staining. This will prevent blotching and lead to a more consistent finish. If you’re new to finishing cabinetry, we advise using an oil-based stain, if possible. See our recommendations below for more information.
Page 3 of 6
Staining
3)
4)
5)
6)
7) 8)
9)
11) 12)
1) Open the can of stain, and use a wooden stir-stick to thoroughly mix it. Hold the stir-stick almost upright, and slowly rotate around the can with a slight up-and-down motion. Keep it slow and steady – you want to avoid creating any bubbles which will have to be sanded out later. It usually takes 2 or 3 minutes of this to get the stain mixed properly. If you can see any swirls of darker or lighter color, keep stirring. 2) Take your clean brush and gently pull at the bristles to remove any that are loose, so they don’t fall out during staining and end up stuck in the finish. We recommend using a high quality natural fiber 2” brush with an angled edge, like the Black China brush shown in the photos. One good brush, properly cleaned, is all you’ll need for this project. If you’re using water-based stain and polyurethane, we advise using a fine synthetic fiber brush. Dip the brush about 1” into the center of the can of stain. Pull it out and tilt it from side to side for a moment so the excess stain drips back into the can. Do NOT wipe the brush on the lip of the can – this creates air bubbles that must be sanded out later. We recommend staining the backsides of drawer fronts first, followed by cabinet door backs. This gives newcomers a chance to build their skills on relatively unseen areas, and gives experienced finishers time to knock the rust off their technique. Beginning in one corner of the door, brush the stain on in long, overlapping strokes, always along the grain of the wood. Brush both directions along each section at least once. Hold the brush at about a 45 degree angle, and don’t apply too much pressure – a light stroke leaves fewer brushstroke marks and will yield a more uniform appearance. Once you’ve stained a strip the length of the door and roughly the width of the brush, stain another next to it that overlaps slightly. Without re-wetting the brush, very lightly brush the entire length of the door where you just stained, using a single, steady brush stroke. Repeat this process where the strip of new stain overlaps the previous strip. This light “feathering” will insure even coverage and a more consistent appearance. When staining the edges of the door or millwork detailing, hold the brush so it’s parallel with direction of movement. This will reduce brushstroke marks in adjacent areas. Work in a steady manner without stopping until the entire top surface and edges of the door have been stained. The stain will need to be stirred as described above every 20 minutes or so – this is very important for achieving a uniform appearance. Take a clean, dry and lint-free cloth, and step away from your finishing area with it. Ball it tightly in your hands several times, then vigorously snap it a few times to knock any loose fibers off. Fold it so it forms a thick, flat pad about the size of the palm of your hand. 10) Wipe down the entire stained area with long, very light overlapping strokes, along the grain. This will even out the stain and remove any minute drips or puddles. The timing on this is critical – the sooner it’s done, the lighter the color of the stain, but it must be done while the stain is still wet. Figure about 2 minutes after you finish staining for a light color, and up to 15 for a darker shade. Bear in mind that you can always apply a second coat of stain (in a few hours) if the first coat is too light, but you can’t lighten it if it’s too dark. Be sure to wipe the underside of each piece too, to get any drips that may have formed there. Check periodically to see if any puddles of stain have oozed from the grain, and if they have, gently wipe them away with your wiping cloth. Wait at least 4 hours before flipping the pieces and staining other side, using the same procedures shown above. Resist the temptation to brush more stain on the edges, even if stain runs onto them; just wipe it away with the cloth at the end, or the edges will be too dark. Page 4 of 6
Applying First Coat of Polyurethane 1) Allow at least 6 hours of drying time after staining before applying polyurethane. We suggest that you allow 12 hours if possible, to ensure that all solvents have evaporated away. 2) If you’ve used an oil-based stain, you’ll need to coat it with an oil-based polyurethane. Likewise, water-based stains should be covered with a water-based polyurethane. We’ve found that Sherwin Williams Wood Classics series stains and polyurethanes are the all around best for both professionals and homeowners, and recommend them highly. 3) Stir the polyurethane in the same way as the stain, taking care not to create bubbles. 4) Make sure your brush is well cleaned, and pull any loose bristles out. 5) Apply the polyurethane in the same manner as the stain was applied. Take care to brush lightly so brushstroke marks aren’t created. Move the brush s-l-o-w-l-y, as rapid movement will create bubbles. 6) Avoid putting too much polyurethane down; a thin coat is all that’s needed, and excess will create puddles and drips. 7) Once the polyurethane has been evenly applied, simply allow it to dry (no wiping) for 12 hours, then repeat the process for the other side.
Second Coat of Polyurethane 1) After allowing the first coat at least 12 hours of drying time, carefully inspect each cabinet door and drawer front for bubbles, brushstroke marks or other marring of the finish. If you find any, lightly sand it out with 220 grit sandpaper. Use a barely damp cloth to wipe away the dust from sanding, and allow a few minutes for the moisture from the cloth to evaporate. You’re now ready to begin applying the 2nd coat of polyurethane. 2) Follow the procedures outlined above, taking great care to avoid creating bubbles or brushstroke marks. 3) Allow at least 12 hours drying time before mounting hardware and/or installing the doors and drawer fronts. Congratulations! You should now have beautifully finished cabinetry, a valuable new skill and a large new notch in your handyman’s belt!
Our finished door
The color we used, as shown on Sherwin Williams’ website
About a Third Coat of Polyurethane Most cabinetry shouldn’t require a 3rd coat, assuming adequate application on the first two coats. However, if it becomes necessary to sand out bubbles or brush marks in the second coat, or if your cabinet doors will be regularly exposed to direct sunlight, high humidity or harsh chemical cleaners, you may opt to add 3rd coat of polyurethane. Simply follow the same steps as you took with the second coat.
About “Popping” the Grain We don’t advise it, especially for a richly grained wood like red oak. If you absolutely must, try using a highly diluted solution of methanol in water, or one of the commercial poppers on the market. Again, we don’t recommend it, and if you do so be prepared to spend a LOT of time sanding the grain back down prior to staining. Page 5 of 6
Products Used In This Example Everything for this project (except for the door itself and the cans of tuna) came from our local Sherwin Williams store. The cabinet door was from Kendor Wood, square with a raised panel, made of solid northern red oak, measuring 39” high by 24” wide. No sanding or preparation was done to it, other than what we show here. The stain was Sherwin Williams Wood Classics oil-based interior wood stain, with a Fruitwood base tinted to Oak Mantel (SW3123). The polyurethane was Sherwin Williams oil-based polyurethane varnish in clear satin (102-1245). We used a single Sherwin Williams 2” thin angle sash brush with black china bristles, from the contractor series. The total cost for everything used to finish this door (excluding the cost of the door itself) was $53.65, and there was enough material left over to do another 8 – 12 cabinet doors. Compared to the cost of hiring a contractor to finish your cabinetry, doing it yourself can easily save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
Low VOC Alternatives Some states have banned oil-based stains and varnishes like the ones we used in the preceding example. If you live in one of these states, you’ll need to use water-based products. We recommend Minwax Water-Based Wood Stain. For sealing, we suggest Sherwin Williams Waterbourne Polyurethane Varnish. In addition to being environmentally healthy, these products clean up easily with soap and water. Oil-based products are still preferred by experienced finishers for good reason, despite their higher cost and more difficult clean-up. We advise using oil-based products if you can.
About The Example Project We wanted to see if these instructions were adequate for an average, inexperienced person, so we tried an experiment. We took a new employee (from the IT department) who had never finished cabinetry before, and was not a “handy” person, and had him do the finishing in this example. Despite some minor divergence between the instructions and what he actually did, it worked out very well. Afterwards we felt confident that the tremendous savings and personal satisfaction derived from finishing your own cabinetry were readily attainable for most homeowners. Our “guinea pig” employee has asked to remain anonymous, but reports that his wife is already badgering him to buy and finish new cabinet doors for their home. The workspace used was the kitchen of a former restaurant nearby. It was chosen because it had plenty of room and the vent hood for the stove provided excellent ventilation. It also had air conditioning which kept the temperature comfortable (this was done in August) and the humidity low inside. The humidity outside was very high (90%+) during this project, but there were no problems with drying or moisture. Hopefully you will find this information useful and worthwhile. You might even find that you have a knack for working with wood, and turn it into a pleasurable hobby or profitable career. We sincerely appreciate your confidence in buying our products, and hope that you too will have a successful outcome to your project. Page 6 of 6
A Few Words About Safety, the Law and Advice Many of the finishing products on the market (including the ones we use and recommend) are considered hazardous chemicals, and must be handled and used with care. Refer to the product label for specific information, and stringently follow those guidelines. Manufacturer’s websites are also an excellent source of information on both safety and finishing techniques. Good ventilation is absolutely essential during finishing and drying. You should take regular breaks away from the work area to get some truly fresh air. Before undertaking a project of this magnitude, make sure you’re physically able to do so. If you have chronic lung problems, shaky hands or poor vison you may be better off having someone else finish your cabinetry for you. A finishing project will take a while, so make sure you’ve got enough time to see it through before starting. The instructions below will provide you with drying times. Allow about 5 to 10 minutes of brush time apiece for every coat on each side of your cabinet doors or drawer fronts, and about half that for wiping and sanding. Be advised that some states have outlawed oil-based stains and finishes, so you may have to purchase water-based products instead. Your local Sherwin Williams store can provide more information about the best options in your state. If you don’t have a Sherwin Williams store nearby, go to the paint store used by local painting contractors; they also should be able to provide helpful, accurate information. We’ve found that the big-box stores are a very poor choice for buying any sort of cabinetry or finishing products – their products are low quality, their prices are high and their employees lack knowledge and experience. Finally, the old saying “the job’s not done till the mess is cleaned up” certainly applies to finishing cabinetry. Please dispose of leftover stain, varnishes, rags, etc. in a legal, safe and courteous manner. It’s important to note that rags soaked with thinner, polyurethane or stain can spontaneously combust, and must not be left lying around or thrown in with other trash. We advise placing them into a container (like an old coffee can) filled with water as soon as you’re done with them, then sealing and disposing of the whole container properly.
Page 1 of 6
What You’ll Need: 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7) 8) 9) 10) 11) 12)
Scissors Several drop cloths or newspapers or cardboard A cleaning brush or soft hand broom Several clean, soft rags Mineral Spirits 220 grit sandpaper A high quality natural-fiber 2” angle brush Cans or blocks to support the doors Several stir sticks Wood stain Polyurethane Metal can with a lid
Receiving and Unpacking your order 1) Look each box over carefully for any signs of damage in transit. If you see any evidence of it (like holes in the box or crushed corners) notify the driver and ask him to note it on the bill of lading BEFORE signing for the shipment. Taking a cell phone picture while the driver’s still there is very helpful too. If any of your product is damaged, please notify us immediately. 2) Make sure the box is sitting correctly (not upside down or on its side), and use a pair of scissors to cut the tape holding the main flap down. 3) Open the box and use scissors to cut the plastic straps holding the doors to the cardboard base. 4) Carefully cut the clear plastic wrap, making sure the point of the scissors doesn’t scratch or gouge the wood. 5) Remove each door from the stack, starting from the top and working your way down. 6) Examine each one carefully to make sure that it’s undamaged, and the correct style, material and size. 7) If you don’t plan on finishing your cabinet doors and drawer fronts immediately, then re-stack them as they were. Secure the stack so it won’t shift, close the box with the tabs tucked in like it came, and seal the flaps with tape. Store with the top up, out of the elements, and preferably where humidity and temperature don’t vary widely. It’s not a good idea to leave unfinished cabinetry in the open for more than a few days – it will absorb moisture from the air, and the grain will begin to “pop”, necessitating hand-sanding prior to finishing.
NEVER expose unfinished cabinetry to direct sunlight – it can cause the panels to shift and corner joints to loosen.
Page 2 of 6
Prepare a Workspace Finishing needs to take place in a location that’s suitable for the task, and safe for you. If the outside temperature is above 60 degrees, a garage or carport is fine, so long as the humidity is low (below 70%) and the cabinetry won’t be exposed to direct sunlight at any time. We don’t advocate finishing outdoors, because airborne particles (from dust to bird droppings) could blemish the surface, and the morning dew will interfere with overnight drying. It’s a good idea to keep pets out of your work area; their dander and hair can mar the finish. In cooler weather, you can finish your doors inside your home. Good ventilation is essential for your safety, and for quick, even drying. If you’re finishing in your kitchen or bathroom, run the vent fan continuously. In other rooms, open a window a few inches and set the fan on your HVAC unit to run constantly. If the humidity’s high, it’s best to wait a few days until it has dropped. Doors that are finished in high humidity will have moisture trapped in the wood, which can lead to problems later. Cover your entire work table with several layers of newspaper, or a good drop cloth. A similar covering should be placed on the floor around the table. It’s wise to prepare for the possibility that a can of stain or polyurethane will spill at some point in the process. The doors will need to be supported up off of the table to allow for a uniform finish on the edges. We’ve found that unopened tuna cans are ideal for this; they’re readily available in most homes and won’t tip if the table gets jarred. Turn them upsidedown so the rounded bottom is in contact with the wood instead of the sharper top rim. Make sure there’s plenty of light in your workspace too.
Clean the Cabinetry Thoroughly Woodworking factories are full of sawdust, and your doors and drawer fronts will have it on them when they arrive. Use a soft brush to sweep it off, taking care to clean the grooves and corners of the millwork. It’s best to do this away from your work area, so the sawdust doesn’t wind up in the polyurethane when it’s wet. Next, use a slightly dampened cloth to wipe down the entire door or drawer front, again paying particular attention to the grooves and corners. Place the doors on the cans or blocks, and allow at least an hour for any remaining moisture to evaporate.
If you’re using an oil-based stain (like Sherwin Williams Wood Classics line) then you’re ready to stain. If you’re using an alcohol or water-based stain, the doors will need to be treated with a coat of conditioner before staining. This will prevent blotching and lead to a more consistent finish. If you’re new to finishing cabinetry, we advise using an oil-based stain, if possible. See our recommendations below for more information.
Page 3 of 6
Staining
3)
4)
5)
6)
7) 8)
9)
11) 12)
1) Open the can of stain, and use a wooden stir-stick to thoroughly mix it. Hold the stir-stick almost upright, and slowly rotate around the can with a slight up-and-down motion. Keep it slow and steady – you want to avoid creating any bubbles which will have to be sanded out later. It usually takes 2 or 3 minutes of this to get the stain mixed properly. If you can see any swirls of darker or lighter color, keep stirring. 2) Take your clean brush and gently pull at the bristles to remove any that are loose, so they don’t fall out during staining and end up stuck in the finish. We recommend using a high quality natural fiber 2” brush with an angled edge, like the Black China brush shown in the photos. One good brush, properly cleaned, is all you’ll need for this project. If you’re using water-based stain and polyurethane, we advise using a fine synthetic fiber brush. Dip the brush about 1” into the center of the can of stain. Pull it out and tilt it from side to side for a moment so the excess stain drips back into the can. Do NOT wipe the brush on the lip of the can – this creates air bubbles that must be sanded out later. We recommend staining the backsides of drawer fronts first, followed by cabinet door backs. This gives newcomers a chance to build their skills on relatively unseen areas, and gives experienced finishers time to knock the rust off their technique. Beginning in one corner of the door, brush the stain on in long, overlapping strokes, always along the grain of the wood. Brush both directions along each section at least once. Hold the brush at about a 45 degree angle, and don’t apply too much pressure – a light stroke leaves fewer brushstroke marks and will yield a more uniform appearance. Once you’ve stained a strip the length of the door and roughly the width of the brush, stain another next to it that overlaps slightly. Without re-wetting the brush, very lightly brush the entire length of the door where you just stained, using a single, steady brush stroke. Repeat this process where the strip of new stain overlaps the previous strip. This light “feathering” will insure even coverage and a more consistent appearance. When staining the edges of the door or millwork detailing, hold the brush so it’s parallel with direction of movement. This will reduce brushstroke marks in adjacent areas. Work in a steady manner without stopping until the entire top surface and edges of the door have been stained. The stain will need to be stirred as described above every 20 minutes or so – this is very important for achieving a uniform appearance. Take a clean, dry and lint-free cloth, and step away from your finishing area with it. Ball it tightly in your hands several times, then vigorously snap it a few times to knock any loose fibers off. Fold it so it forms a thick, flat pad about the size of the palm of your hand. 10) Wipe down the entire stained area with long, very light overlapping strokes, along the grain. This will even out the stain and remove any minute drips or puddles. The timing on this is critical – the sooner it’s done, the lighter the color of the stain, but it must be done while the stain is still wet. Figure about 2 minutes after you finish staining for a light color, and up to 15 for a darker shade. Bear in mind that you can always apply a second coat of stain (in a few hours) if the first coat is too light, but you can’t lighten it if it’s too dark. Be sure to wipe the underside of each piece too, to get any drips that may have formed there. Check periodically to see if any puddles of stain have oozed from the grain, and if they have, gently wipe them away with your wiping cloth. Wait at least 4 hours before flipping the pieces and staining other side, using the same procedures shown above. Resist the temptation to brush more stain on the edges, even if stain runs onto them; just wipe it away with the cloth at the end, or the edges will be too dark. Page 4 of 6
Applying First Coat of Polyurethane 1) Allow at least 6 hours of drying time after staining before applying polyurethane. We suggest that you allow 12 hours if possible, to ensure that all solvents have evaporated away. 2) If you’ve used an oil-based stain, you’ll need to coat it with an oil-based polyurethane. Likewise, water-based stains should be covered with a water-based polyurethane. We’ve found that Sherwin Williams Wood Classics series stains and polyurethanes are the all around best for both professionals and homeowners, and recommend them highly. 3) Stir the polyurethane in the same way as the stain, taking care not to create bubbles. 4) Make sure your brush is well cleaned, and pull any loose bristles out. 5) Apply the polyurethane in the same manner as the stain was applied. Take care to brush lightly so brushstroke marks aren’t created. Move the brush s-l-o-w-l-y, as rapid movement will create bubbles. 6) Avoid putting too much polyurethane down; a thin coat is all that’s needed, and excess will create puddles and drips. 7) Once the polyurethane has been evenly applied, simply allow it to dry (no wiping) for 12 hours, then repeat the process for the other side.
Second Coat of Polyurethane 1) After allowing the first coat at least 12 hours of drying time, carefully inspect each cabinet door and drawer front for bubbles, brushstroke marks or other marring of the finish. If you find any, lightly sand it out with 220 grit sandpaper. Use a barely damp cloth to wipe away the dust from sanding, and allow a few minutes for the moisture from the cloth to evaporate. You’re now ready to begin applying the 2nd coat of polyurethane. 2) Follow the procedures outlined above, taking great care to avoid creating bubbles or brushstroke marks. 3) Allow at least 12 hours drying time before mounting hardware and/or installing the doors and drawer fronts. Congratulations! You should now have beautifully finished cabinetry, a valuable new skill and a large new notch in your handyman’s belt!
Our finished door
The color we used, as shown on Sherwin Williams’ website
About a Third Coat of Polyurethane Most cabinetry shouldn’t require a 3rd coat, assuming adequate application on the first two coats. However, if it becomes necessary to sand out bubbles or brush marks in the second coat, or if your cabinet doors will be regularly exposed to direct sunlight, high humidity or harsh chemical cleaners, you may opt to add 3rd coat of polyurethane. Simply follow the same steps as you took with the second coat.
About “Popping” the Grain We don’t advise it, especially for a richly grained wood like red oak. If you absolutely must, try using a highly diluted solution of methanol in water, or one of the commercial poppers on the market. Again, we don’t recommend it, and if you do so be prepared to spend a LOT of time sanding the grain back down prior to staining. Page 5 of 6
Products Used In This Example Everything for this project (except for the door itself and the cans of tuna) came from our local Sherwin Williams store. The cabinet door was from Kendor Wood, square with a raised panel, made of solid northern red oak, measuring 39” high by 24” wide. No sanding or preparation was done to it, other than what we show here. The stain was Sherwin Williams Wood Classics oil-based interior wood stain, with a Fruitwood base tinted to Oak Mantel (SW3123). The polyurethane was Sherwin Williams oil-based polyurethane varnish in clear satin (102-1245). We used a single Sherwin Williams 2” thin angle sash brush with black china bristles, from the contractor series. The total cost for everything used to finish this door (excluding the cost of the door itself) was $53.65, and there was enough material left over to do another 8 – 12 cabinet doors. Compared to the cost of hiring a contractor to finish your cabinetry, doing it yourself can easily save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
Low VOC Alternatives Some states have banned oil-based stains and varnishes like the ones we used in the preceding example. If you live in one of these states, you’ll need to use water-based products. We recommend Minwax Water-Based Wood Stain. For sealing, we suggest Sherwin Williams Waterbourne Polyurethane Varnish. In addition to being environmentally healthy, these products clean up easily with soap and water. Oil-based products are still preferred by experienced finishers for good reason, despite their higher cost and more difficult clean-up. We advise using oil-based products if you can.
About The Example Project We wanted to see if these instructions were adequate for an average, inexperienced person, so we tried an experiment. We took a new employee (from the IT department) who had never finished cabinetry before, and was not a “handy” person, and had him do the finishing in this example. Despite some minor divergence between the instructions and what he actually did, it worked out very well. Afterwards we felt confident that the tremendous savings and personal satisfaction derived from finishing your own cabinetry were readily attainable for most homeowners. Our “guinea pig” employee has asked to remain anonymous, but reports that his wife is already badgering him to buy and finish new cabinet doors for their home. The workspace used was the kitchen of a former restaurant nearby. It was chosen because it had plenty of room and the vent hood for the stove provided excellent ventilation. It also had air conditioning which kept the temperature comfortable (this was done in August) and the humidity low inside. The humidity outside was very high (90%+) during this project, but there were no problems with drying or moisture. Hopefully you will find this information useful and worthwhile. You might even find that you have a knack for working with wood, and turn it into a pleasurable hobby or profitable career. We sincerely appreciate your confidence in buying our products, and hope that you too will have a successful outcome to your project. Page 6 of 6
