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FOOD + WINE

FOOD + WINE

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COMBINING CLASSICAL FRENCH TRAINING WITH A PASSION FOR THE HUGE SCOPE OF CHINESE CUISINE, VICTOR LIONG HAS BECOME ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S BRIGHTEST YOUNG CHEFS. Words Nathalie Craig Recipes Victor Liong Photography Brett Stevens Stylist Yael Grinham

VICTOR TALKS RECIPES

E

arly on in his career Victor Liong would follow the allocation of Chef Hat Awards as eagerly as other people follow the rankings of football teams. “I’d be seeing which chef worked where, how many hats they had and what their signature dishes were,” he recalls. Now, it’s his turn. We spoke to Victor the morning after he scored his first Chef ’s Hat for his Melbourne restaurant Lee Ho Fook at The Age Good Food Guide Awards. “I’m still waiting for it to sink in, but it’s nice to finally get mine,” he tells us. Victor opened Lee Ho Fook in 2013 as a place to cook his own style of Chinese food, executed with the fine dining techniques he learned at the start of his career. Despite being from a MalaysianChinese background, Liong didn’t start out cooking Asian food. “I am classically trained in French cuisine. I spent a lot of my early career in European restaurants.” He worked with revered Sydney chefs including Mark Best at his iconic Surry Hills restaurant, Marque. “It was great fun working with Mark because it was really cutting edge. I got to meet a lot of people and learn a lot of new techniques.” THE CALL OF CHINA

When Victor decided to branch out and define his own style of cooking, he kept turning to Chinese cuisine. He began training with some of Sydney’s elite Asian chefs, including Dan Hong while he was opening his famous Mr Wong restaurant. “China is such a diverse country. There are regions that are only wheat cuisines, some are rice, some are 48 NOV|DEC 16

landlocked, so there’s no seafood at all, and some are coastal.” What’s more, with more than 3,000 years of history and over a billion people, China is a continual source of inspiration. “It’s such a big, rich, diverse cultural pool to draw from. I could do it for a million years.” OPENING LEE HO FOOK

Victor decided to open Lee Ho Fook in Melbourne, saying that at the time, Sydney didn’t need another new style Chinese venue. “When I first started it was pretty daunting, new city, new style of food,” he recalls. “In the early days, it was about finding confidence in the food I made and training the staff and getting them to believe in the vision, but it’s easier now that it’s three years old and has its own identity.” Speaking of identity, the name comes from a Chinese restaurant in London that crops up in Warren Zevon’s 1978 hit song, Werewolves of London. Zevon also provided the name for Victor’s other restaurant, which closed earlier this year, Lawyers, Guns and Money. But back to Lee Ho Fook. Since the start, Victor has kept several signature dishes on the menu. “I really like the idea of having young chefs come through and get be part of a signature dish, like the way Tetsuya has his Ocean Trout and Mark had his egg.” With a wealth of knowledge and a great passion for creating new dishes, expect to see this talented young chef accruing more hats in the future.

Warm scallops, silken tofu and soy brown butter “When I worked at Marque we used to cook all the scampi with brown butter and I’d season it with a little bit of garlic and soy sauce and all the boys said if I opened a restaurant I’d have to do something with it because it’s amazing. Once the heat gets to both ingredients they go to opposite spectrums – the scallops firm up and the tofu softens so you get quite a nice textural contrast.” White cut chicken, black vinegar dressing and aromatic Sichuan chilli oil “It’s a classic kind of Sichuan dish and we don’t mess with it too much. Black vinegar is one of my favourite f lavour profiles in Chinese cooking.” Chinese potato salad, enoki, dill and garlic dressing “This dish showcases a different texture in potatoes. When people think potato salad, they’re thinking about the one at Christmas with the mayonnaise. In China, it’s very common to just shred the potato and cook it quickly like a crunchy vegetable”. Steamed barramundi, ginger and spring onion “This Lee Ho Fook classic has been with us since the first day. My family is from the Canton region known for really light cooking and ginger spring onion has been a f lavour profile I’ve enjoyed since I was a child.” Poached calamari, blue swimmer crab meat, carrot and ginger sauce “I’ve always been obsessed with carrots, using their natural sweetness and also because they’re always very pretty. I like the texture of the calamari when it’s poached – it’s a really light summery spring dish.” 49 NOV|DEC 16

FOOD + WINE

FOOD + WINE

Chinese potato salad, enoki, dill and garlic dressing

Chinese potato salad, enoki, dill and garlic dressing Prep: 30 mins. Cooking: 5 mins

White cut chicken, black vinegar dressing and aromatic Sichuan chilli oil

1. For Sichaun chilli oil, place chilli, garlic and

Prep: 40 mins Cooking: 80 mins

ginger in a blender or food processor and blend into a smooth paste, set aside.

Garlic dressing 50g kombu extract

Chicken

all ingredients well (this will keep in the

100ml water

4 free range chicken Marylands,

refrigerator for 3 months).

100ml sugar syrup

3. Bring water to the boil in a large pot. Add

100g sesame oil

2 litres water

all chicken ingredients except for the chicken.

160ml rice vinegar

600ml Chinese shao shing rice wine

Place tight-fitting lid, reduce to a simmer and

400ml white soy sauce

1½ tbsp salt

allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Bring pot back

400ml vegetable oil

2½ cm ginger, sliced

to the boil and add the chicken Marylands,

30g garlic, peeled and grated

2 spring onions, cut into 5cm batons

bring the aromatic stock back to the boil and

2 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed

cover with the lid, turn off heat and allow

10g konbu extract (optional)

the residual heat to cook the chicken, this

1 tbsp white soy sauce (optional)

will take 45-60 minutes, depending on the

skin on, bone in

on a microplane 2½ cm piece ginger, peeled and grated on a microplane

temperature of the chicken when it is placed

Garnish

Sichuan chilli oil

in the stock.

1 bunch spring onion, julienned

9 long red chillies, stems removed

4. Probe the meat close to the bone with

1 kohlrabi, peeled and sliced finely

15 cloves garlic, peeled

a meat thermometer, and once it has

10cm piece ginger, peeled

reached 70ºC, remove from the stock,

10ml chilli oil (optional)

200ml vegetable oil

cool to room temperature, and then chill

1 bunch dill, picked

2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns

in the refrigerator.

1 bunch coriander, picked

300g Sichuan style roasted chilli paste,

5. To compete the chilli oil, heat vegetable

1 punnet enoki mushrooms, grilled

Lao Gan Ma is a good brand 300ml chilli oil

White cut chicken, black vinegar dressing and aromatic Sichuan chilli oil

on a mandolin

oil in a wok over low heat with Sichuan peppercorns until fragrant and aromatic.

1. For the dressing, mix all ingredients

Carefully add the chilli, ginger and garlic

to combine (dressing will keep in the

Black vinegar dressing

paste, stirring constantly – cook until most of

refrigerator for 1 week).

125ml rice vinegar

the moisture has evaporated and the mixture

2. Peel potatoes and using a mandolin, cut

125g sugar syrup (1:1, sugar to water)

is slightly sticky, add the Sichuan chilli paste

a fine julienne, soak in cold water for an

250ml black vinegar

and bring to a low simmer, cook slowly until

hour, changing the water 4 times to rinse

250ml mirin

the colour of the chilli paste resembles one

out the starch.

600ml soy sauce

colour, remove from heat and add the chilli

3. Bring a large pot of water to the boil,

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely grated

oil, allow to cool and store in the refrigerator

season the water with salt until it tastes like

(this will keep in the fridge for 3 months).

seawater. Add the potatoes and cook for

6. Carve the meat off the bone of the chicken

1-1½ minutes, the potatoes should still be

Maryland, and cut into bite sized pieces,

crunchy but not taste raw. Drain from the

vinegar dressing and aromatic Sichuan chilli oil

arrange in a bowl and pour over the black

pot and submerge the cooked potatoes in

This dish is packed with flavour yet it

Garnish

vinegar dressing to almost cover the chicken.

iced water to stop the cooking, allow to cool

Zest of 1 lemon

Allow to sit in the dressing for 5-10 minutes

completely and drain well.

wine choice has to reflect that. Made

80g roasted peanuts, roughly chopped

to infuse the chicken with the sauce, stir the

4. Mix potatoes with spring onions, and

with premium old vine fruit, the 2012

30g white sesame seeds, toasted

Sichuan chilli oil and pour over a generous

dress lightly. Arrange slices of kohlrabi on a

Frankland Estate Netley Road Riesling

50g spring onions, sliced

amount. Garnish by evenly sprinkling the

serving plate and scatter potatoes and spring

shows lemongrass, green apple, wet

20g coriander stems, finely sliced

chicken with the variety of garnishes.

onions over the kohlrabi. Drizzle over chilli

stone and light florals, and although

1 bunch of coriander, picked

Wine match: Frankland Estate Netley Road

oil (if using), and garnish with herbs and

20g Chinese celery, stalks only, sliced

Riesling 2012

mushrooms.

on a microplane ½ cm piece ginger, peeled and finely grated on a microplane

NOV|DEC 16

1kg desiree potatoes

2. For the black vinegar dressing, combine

Serves 4

50

Serves 4

Wine

+ White cut chicken, black

is delicate and well balanced so the

incredibly youthful, it has lovely secondary hints of toast.

51 NOV|DEC 16

FOOD + WINE

FOOD + WINE

Wine

+P  oached calamari, chervil, blue swimmer crab meat, carrot

and ginger sauce This is another delicate yet incredibly flavoursome dish so choose a wine with similar attributes. The 2013 Soumah Viognier from the Yarra opens with stonefruit florals and varietal ginger and although rich, it’s refined, with lovely spicy acidity and fine length. A Riesling with a bit of age or medium weight Chardonnay would also be perfect.

Wine

+S  teamed barramundi, ginger and spring onion Go for a lovely modern Chardonnay that’s really tight and restrained. This issue’s featured wine from Dandelion Vineyards in the Adelaide Hills is perfect as it’s so fresh and flavoursome with excellent length, power and clarity, and beautifully balanced zesty acidity and refined oak sitting right in the background adding savoury support. + Warm scallops, silken tofu and soy brown butter Here’s another dish ideal with a fragrant white. Pour a glass of Riesling or our featured Vermentino from David Hook. A perfumed and intense wine with a beautifully refined and stylish palate, it has long, silken fruit persistence and delightful harmony and mouth-feel. It’s a great textural partner for the scallops.

52 NOV|DEC 16

53 NOV|DEC 16

FOOD + WINE

Poached calamari, chervil, blue swimmer crab meat, carrot and ginger sauce Prep: 20 mins. Cooking: 25 mins

Steamed barramundi, ginger and spring onion

Serves 4

Prep: 20 mins. Cooking: 20 mins

Sauce 500ml chicken stock

Serves 4

2 ½ tsp salt

300g barramundi fillets, skin on

Warm scallops, silken tofu and soy brown butter

2½ cm piece ginger, peeled and julienned

Prep: 20 mins. Cooking: 20 mins

10g konbu extract (optional)

Serves 4

1 tsp sesame oil

Soy dressing 100ml rice vinegar

3 tsp sugar

1 carrot, peeled and grated

Scallops

½ cup sugar

8 scallops in the half shell

500ml water

200g silken tofu

on a microplane 20g kuzu starch, mixed with 40ml cold water to form a slurry

60g konbu extract 600ml soy sauce

Garnish 200ml vegetable oil

Soy brown butter

Calamari

100g unsalted butter

400g calamari, cleaned

1 tsp fresh wasabi (optional) or tube

1.5L water

wasabi can be used

300ml Chinese shao shing rice wine

1 bunch coriander, picked

2 cloves garlic, peeled, finely chopped

3 tsp salt

1 bunch spring onion, julienned

50ml soy sauce

2 ½ cm piece ginger, sliced

1 tsp caster sugar

100g blue swimmer crab meat

1 bunch watercress, picked for garnish

1. For the soy dressing, mix all ingredients

Garnish

together, stir until sugar dissolves (this will

1. Cut scallops into 1cm pieces and divide

1 bunch chervil, picked

keep for 3 weeks in the refrigerator).

evenly into 4 shells. Dice tofu into 1cm pieces

1 bunch spring onion, green parts only,

2. Cut barramundi into bite sized pieces,

and divide into the scallop shells alternating

scatter ginger over the top and set on a plate

between scallops and tofu. Set aside.

that will fit over a steamer basket.

2. Heat medium sized saucepan over medium

1. Heat stock in a wok or saucepan until

3. Heat water in a wok over high heat, place

to high heat, add butter and cook until nut

it boils, add seasoning ingredients and oil

bamboo steamer over wok and steam fish for

brown. Allow to cool slightly, then add garlic

and stir through to dissolve. Add carrots

10-12 minutes until cooked, the flesh should

and cook until aromatic. Add wasabi and soy

and allow to cook until the sauce is sweet

be soft and the skin gelatinous. Transfer fish

sauce, stir through and season with sugar.

and bright orange. Add crab meat to cook,

onto a service plate and pour over dressing.

3. Preheat oven to 180ºC, place scallops onto

thicken with kuzu slurry until a creamy shiny

4. For the garnish, heat vegetable oil in a

baking tray and warm in the oven, this will

sauce is achieved. Keep warm.

small saucepan until smoking hot, scatter half

take around 3-4 minutes. The idea is to warm

2. Meanwhile, split calamari tubes, and shave

the spring onions over the fish and pour over

the scallops enough so they firm up and the

into thin slices on an angle. Set aside.

the hot oil. The oil should sizzle and cook the

tofu should soften, giving a great textural

3. Bring water, salt, rice wine and ginger to

onions, releasing an amazing aroma. Garnish

contrast.

the boil and allow to infuse for 10 minutes.

with the remaining spring onions and

4. Warm sauce and drizzle over, ensuring

Lower heat to a simmer, place calamari

coriander leaves, serve with steamed rice.

you get an even amount of butter and soy

in a sieve and dip in and out of the water

Wine match: Dandelion Vineyards Twilight

on each scallop shell. Garnish with picked

to poach ever so slightly until it becomes

of the Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016

watercress.

opaque. Drain well and keep warm.

Wine match: David Hook Vermentino 2015

julienned

4. Divide sauce into serving bowls, top with calamari and garnish with chervil and spring onions.

Wine match: Soumah Viognier 2013 54 NOV|DEC 16