Your Adventure in ... Milwaukee

Report 9 Downloads 59 Views
photography by tk

photography by Murat Taner /Get t y Images

Adventure In

70 | Spirit

m i lwau k e e

e Spirit’s Milwauke Adventure Quiz 1) You’re famish for first? 

d you reach ed. Which woul

e r with a Gatorad A) A protein ba e on ld co l tal A B) C) Beef jerky eso D) Chips and qu

you most like 6) What would

chaser

” by Pink Floyd A) “The Thin Ice by Alan Jackson B) “Pop a Top” gar 55” by Sammy Ha C) “I Can’t Drive use Mo st de Mo by eese” D) “Mice Eat Ch

on the agenda?

e game A) Watching th b crawl B) Going on a pu town C) Cruising the e supermarket se samples at th D) Scoring chee

u like best as 4) Whom did yo

a kid?

an A) Bobby McLe B) Sam Adams Davidson rley and Ar thur C) William S. Ha aft Kr L. D) James

5) Which house

upgrade do you

torch A) The Olympic B) A brew pot tachometer C) An electronic d fondue pot ere ow D) A gas-p

ost want le would you m 7) Which peop e? an pl e th beside on

as a would you use 2) Which song e? on gt rin ult defa

st night . What’s fir 3) It’s Saturday

to light up?

like most?

m A) A fitness roo e basement d wet bar for th B) A cherr y-woo e garag C) A three-car iry compartment an oversized da D) A fridge with

to sit

and Eric Heiden A) Bonnie Blair m Cheers on and Norm fro ps Sim r me B) Ho a nd Fo ter Pe er and C) Dennis Hopp rdon Ramsay Go d an y Ra l ae D) Rach

8) What would

you pack first?

s and a hoodie A) Running shoe ch hand oz ys, one for ea B) Two beer co s es sin bu C) None of your eez Whiz eese Nips, and Ch D) Cheetos, Ch

d you wear on yo 9) Which woul

ur head?

beanie A) A hand-knit th a straw B) A beer hat wi not C) A helmet…or ers!) sehead (go Pack D) A foam chee

d best per sticker woul 10) Which bum suit your car?

way!” A) “Get out of my makes you lean.” make you fat, it B) “Beer doesn’t y.” rle Ha driving my C) “I’d rather be kers.” ma se ee ch e th D) “Blessed are

on page 72. venture begins ostly A, your ad m ed er on page 74. sw s an gin u be If yo your adventure B, tly os m ge 76. ed If you answer ure begins on pa C, your advent tly os m ge 78. ed pa er on If you answ nture begins tly D, your adve os m ed er sw an If you

photography by tk

Y O U R

A D V E N T U R E

I N

Milwaukee You could do worse than seeing the art museum spread its ‘wings’ (left). But you’ll do better by taking our quiz to find your perfect adventure. B y J e n n i f e r N a l e w i c k i

Spirit | 71

Ice Breakers Warm up after skating with a piping hot cup of fair-trade joe at Alterra Coffee. alterracoffee.com Swap your skates for sneakers and stroll the walking path along Lake Michigan starting at Bradford Beach, bradfordbeachjam.com Cheer on the Milwaukee Admirals hockey team at the Bradley Center. milwaukeeadmirals.com

72 | Spirit

m i lwau k e e

I F YO U A N S W E R E D M O S T LY A , YO U A R E A :

Blade Runner I begin to teeter. With every glide my ankles buckle, causing me to swerve on the ice. “Now bend your knees,” says Olusegun Sijuwade, an Olympic speedskating hopeful who serves as my coach for the day ($50 to $70 an hour, includes skate rental and admission). “You’re getting it. Put your hands behind your back.” I windmill my arms so I won’t fall. I’m on the indoor 400-meter oval at Pettit National Ice Center, a U.S. Olympic training site that offers speed skating instruction by reservation. It’s one of just two ovals in the United States. Olympians can hit speeds between 25 mph and 35 mph, but I’m lucky to reach 1 mph. “It’s probably the skates,” Sijuwade says. “Manufacturers make the blades thinner and

longer than regular ones.” Skaters must push their feet out in counter-clockwise circles, a manuever that takes plenty of concentration. I find myself both mentally and physically exhausted. All told, I make it around the oval only six times. During the last 200 meters, Al Hutzell, another speed skater, challenges me to a race. We line up at the starting line. Hutzell takes off, leaving me slip sliding behind. I finally reach the finish, stumbling to the bench to pull the skates off my throbbing feet. “You’re pretty hearty,” Sijuwade says, slapping me on the back. “Most pros only practice for two hours, you’ve been out there for three.” At least I won’t have to hit the hotel gym later. thepettit.com

photography by Jonathan Daniel/Get t y Images, John Muggenborg/Muggphoto (Mit tens)

Adventure In

Mug Shots Follow the life of beer baron Frederick Pabst at the 20,000-square-foot Pabst Mansion. pabstmansion.com Pair your beer with a bratwurst topped with spicy brown mustard at Horny Goat Brewing Co. hornygoatbrewing. com Chug a frothy root beer at Sprecher Brewing Company. sprecherbrewery.com

74 | Spirit

m i lwau k e e

I F YO U A N S W E R E D M O S T LY B , YO U A R E A :

Beer BuΩ Lucy Saunders knows beer. The Milwaukee author of Cooking With Beer has toured more than 500 breweries over the past two decades. So when she agrees to give me a brewery tour of her city, I’m set for an afternoon of hop-enhanced bliss. First stop: Lakefront Brewery (lakefrontbrewery.com). The award-winning microbrewery encourages sampling before and during its tours. I’ll drink to that. “Try the Wheat Monkey,” Saunders says as we settle onto a worn wooden picnic bench in the beer garden. “It’s a light wheat ale known for its crispness and hint of citrus.” While I sip, our tour guide says that we should designate a beer buddy: “In case you become tipsy, just hand your beer to your buddy, fall, get up, and take a sip.”

After an accident-free tour, we head to MillerCoors (millercoors.com). We visit Miller’s shipping center, as big as five football fields, as well as the Miller Caves, built in 1849 as a refrigeration facility. “Workers once harvested ice from the surrounding lakes to put into the walls of the caves to preserve the beer,” Saunders says. We cap off the visit with a few swigs of Miller Lite at the Bavarian-esque Miller Inn on the site. For our final stop, we hit Sugar Maple (414.481.2393), a bar known for its wide assortment of microbrews on tap—60 total. I order the Wisconsin-made New Glarus Brewing Co. Raspberry Tart. “It’s dessert in a glass,” Saunders says. The beer certainly satisfied my sweet tooth.

photography courtesy of LakeFront Brewery (taps), by john muggenborg/muggphoto (tokens)

Adventure In

Rest Stops Cruise around town on a bike from EagleRider Motorcycle Rental ($150 per day). eaglerider. com Relax after a spin with a massage at the Iron Horse Hotel, a 100room boutique hotel catering to bikers and business travelers. theironhorsehotel.com Sip a Shovelhead—a cocktail made with vodka, lemonade, and Chambord—inspired by the Harley engine, at Motor, the museum’s onsite restaurant. harleydavidsonmuseum.com

76 | Spirit

m i lwau k e e

I F YO U A N S W E R E D M O S T LY C , YO U A R E A :

Road Hog The engine’s rumble begins as a throaty growl but soon explodes into a fullon roar, shaking the Harley-Davidson Museum floor. “That’s the sound of a knucklehead engine,” says Jim Fricke, the museum’s curatorial director. “Harleys are praised for the sound of their engines. They’re treated like jewels that the bikes are built around.” I’m on the Back Roads Tour, a 90-minute, every-Friday, behind-the-scenes look into the motorcycle museum’s archives ($25). Much of the vast collection never goes on display. Fricke introduces me to several hundred bikes dating back as far as the early 20th century, as well as vintage magazines, old photographs, and some well-worn Harley gear.

Right now we’re fiddling with an interactive computer exhibit that showcases the sounds of various engines. “A lot of bikers are able to hear the engine and know exactly which one it is,” he says, pushing a button. The original Harleys were known for their quiet engines. Many modern riders prefer the opposite. Fricke shows me a bike owned by Malcolm Forbes that some say Elizabeth Taylor rode. He also pulls out a scrapbook about Harley-Davidson racer Otto Walker in the early 20th century. Since I’ve never driven a Harley before, Fricke lets me sit on a refurbished one in the archive’s shop. I can feel the power of the bike, and the engine isn’t even running. harleydavidsonmuseum.com

photography courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives (racing), by John Muggenborg/muggphoto (toy)

Adventure In

Foodie Finds Sample from more than 175 local cheeses at Wisconsin Cheese Mart, then walk a few doors down to Usinger’s for a sausage fix. wisconsincheesemart.com, usingers.com Browse for seafood, preserves, and fresh-baked bread at the Milwaukee Public Market, a yearround, indoor farmers’ market located in the city’s Historic Third Ward district. milwaukeepublicmarket.org Celebrate Kopp’s Frozen Custard’s 60-year anniversary by digging into a specialty sundae. kopps. com

78 | Spirit

m i lwau k e e

I F YO U A N S W E R E D M O S T LY D, YO U A R E A :

Cheese Whiz Curds and whey aren’t just the stuff of nursery rhymes. You can separate the two using a giant slotted spoon at a two-hour cheese-making class at Cedarburg Homebrew and Wine in Cedarburg, a bedroom community 20 miles north of Milwaukee. Instructor Steve Shapson offers classes on cheese making by reservation. During the $75 class, he teaches me and nine other queso wannabes how to make Camembert, a soft, creamy cheese similar to Brie. Shapson began making cheese eight years ago and believes the process entails both art and science. “It’s like an experiment,” he says as he pours the whey into a gigantic pot to simmer into a mixture that will eventually become a batch of ricotta. “Sometimes the mistakes can be

great. I’ve made some of the best cheeses that way.” During the class, we learn how to ripen the milk with dry cultures and rennet, stir the curds while they float in an industrialsize warmer, cut them with a knife, and shape them into perfect rounds with the help of plastic molds. There’s not enough time to salt and age the curds, a process that requires weeks of refrigeration. But Shapson won’t let us leave on empty stomachs. He prepared a round of Camembert ahead of time. As he slices it open, the gooey center oozes out. We greedily scoop the cheese onto crusty slices of bread and savor its delicate saltiness. Sheer nursery-rhyme poetry. thecheesemaker.com

photography courtesy of steve shapson (cheesemaking), by John Muggenborg/muggphoto (cheese)

Adventure In

Adventure In

m i lwau k e e

45

Cedarburg Homebrew and Wine

. ve cA

W. Burleigh St. W. Locust St.

Av e.

W. North Ave.

Pro sp ec tA ve .

La

e. Av on

r. N. Lake D

North-South Fwy.

Du

on

Lakefront Brewery

N.

N. 76th St.

sb

N. Humboldt Blvd.

43

on .F W

t ple Ap W.

N. 92nd St.

W. Li

. wy oF Zo

N. Mayfair Rd.

W. Bluemound Rd.

W. Capitol Dr.

MillerCoors

W. Highland Ave.

43

W. Wisconsin Ave.

Harley-Davidson Museum

94

Pettit National Ice Center

it

. W

lo Be

. Rd

. ve eA

st

43 1 mile

Milwaukee Mentions 1) Big Cheese. One in four cheeses sold in the United States comes from Wisconsin. 2) Tapped Out. MillerCoors produces 2,000 cans of beer a minute. 3) Color Zone. The town earned the name “Cream City” for its many creamcolored buildings. 4) Weather Report. The flame atop the Wisconsin Gas Company building forecasts the weather. Gold means cold, red means warm, blue means no change, and flickering means rain or snow.

80 | Spirit

894

kki n

MICHIGAN

nic

794

E. Layton Ave.

General Mitchell International Airport

Lay of the Land GET THERE Fly In General Mitchell International Airport (mitchellairport.com) is about six miles from downtown.

D o T here Mar. 6–7. Check out a rain dance at the annual Indian Summer Festival’s Winter Pow Wow. indiansummer.org

Get Around Milwaukee County Transit System (ridemcts.com) buses will drop you off at or near the Harley-Davidson Museum, the breweries, and the Pettit National Ice Center for $2 per ride. But it’s more convenient with a rental car.

Through Apr. 1. Eyeball a meteorite, tiny shoes from the Lilliputian Opera Company, and other oddities at the Milwaukee Public Museum’s newest exhibit, “Cabinets of Curiosity: Wondrous Objects and Extraordinary Stories From the Museum’s Collections.” mpm.edu

Get Away You’ll need a car to get to the cheese-making class in Cedarburg. Rent one at the airport.

Apr. 23–25. Imagine yourself owning the diamonds and pearls at the International Gem and Jewelry Show. intergem.net

illustration by steve stankiewicz

0

43

LAKE

S. Pennsylvania Ave.

N

94

S. Howell Ave.

W. Oklahoma Ave.

nic

e. Av

e or .F W

Sugar Maple

m Ho

S. 27th St.

l Ave.

e. Av

in S. K

l na

S. 43rd St.

a .N W 894

a tion

Ave.

W. Mitchell St.

45

tio

a W. N

W. National

W. Greenfield Ave. S. 100th St.

W. Greenfield Ave.