USSR Pik Lenina, Second Winter Ascent. Our expedition was led by ...

U SSR P ik L enina, Second W inter A scent. O ur expedition was led by L enonid A. Troshchinenko and consisted o f 24 p eo p le . D eputy leader was A leksandr G lushkovski and I was leader o f the support team . A fter leaving L eningrad on January 13, we arrived at A chiktash on the 19th and m ade A dvance Base the next day on the glacier at 4200 m eters. We follow ed the A rkin route on the center o f the north face. C am ps I and II were placed in snow holes at 5400 and 6100 m eters on January 25 and 28. Up to 6900 m eters we fixed the route w ith 4000 m eters o f rope. In the upper part we clim bed the left side. The sum m it team s were m ade up o f 11 men each. On February 3, A leksey Koren and Sem yon Yastrebov reached the sum m it (7134 m eters, 23,4 0 6 feet). The rest were driven back by − 35° C tem peratures, storm and snow fall. The next day, the w eather was better and nine gained the sum m it: T roshchinenko, G lushkovski, A leksey D orfeyev, M ikhail M ozhayev, V iktor Ivanov, A ndrey Tsekoyev, Avoz M irzuyev, A leksey G um yenuk and Petko Totev; the latter was a guest from Bulgaria. Both team s reached Base C am p on February 6. T his was the second w inter ascent o f Pik L enina, but we m ade a variant in the upper part. The first w inter ascent was in 1988 (A A J, 1989, p. 294.) G

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K lub Vysotnik, Leningrad, USSR