Wheely - Thingiverse
Wheely The Amazing Robotic Chicken Substitute
www.thingiverse.com/thing:
Assembly Instructions and Parts List
Wheely. Wheely (Pullus Sine Fuga Ex Machina) is a domesticated subspecies of the common Flightless Aircraft. Found in the disused aerodromes of the southwestern deserts, Wheelies descend from earlier generations of autonomous UAV’s. They live in rigorously organized communities called ‘squadrons’ and spend most of their lives socializing. Largely ambivalent to other mechanical organisms, Wheely retains his ancestors ability to detect electric fields. Wheely is intended as a project for the skilled maker. To complete this project, you will need to read a circuit diagram, solder a wiring harness, upload a sketch to an Arduino, and assemble a precisely deigned Japanese gearbox. Printing on the MakerBot Replicator takes approximately 30 hours, and assembly time is 4 to 6 hours.
-Michael Curry (Skimbal)
I would like to thank 3D Warehouse user ‘iankantian’ for the Tamiya Gearbox model and user ‘James’ for the Arduino model. Both models are available in there original forms at 3dwarehouse.com
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 444 Castro Street, Suite 900, Mountain View, California, 94041, USA.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
1/5
Parts
These parts make up the moving and accent parts of Wheely. Print them all in the same color. Some parts need to be printed twice. Wheel.stl needs to be printed with ‘external support’ enabled. There is an alternate version of Wheel.stl called Wheel Treaded.stl which has v-shaped treads. I print the parts at 10% infill with 1 extra shell.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
2/5
Parts
These parts make up Wheely’s body. Print them all in the same color. Notice that Rocket Fins.stl needs to be printed twice. I print the parts at 10% infill with 1 extra shell.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
3/5
Parts
These are the optional and extra parts that let you customize your Wheely and give it some character. The Heart Tail and Star Tail are set up for DuelExtrusion. Eyes A.stl, Goggles A.stl, Goggles B.stl, Aviators.stl, Mouth.stl, and Mustache.stl need to be printed with ‘external support’ enabled.
Arduino Uno Open source microcontroller store.makerbot.com/arduino-uno.html
Pololu Qik 2s9v1
Tamiya 70168 Double Gearbox Kit
Dual Serial Motor Controller
Low voltage Gearbox
www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1110
www.pololu.com/catalog/product/114
LiPo Battery 7.4v, 1000mAh http://www.hobbyking.com
2 10M ohm Resistors Radio Shack / Hackerspace Used in the Capacitance Sensors
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
4/5
Parts
4 AA batteries can be substituted for the LiPo battery. Please don’t use a LiPo battery unless you know what it is and how to take care of it.
M3 Hardware www.mcmaster.com/
Copper Flashing Hardware Store / Hackerspace Used in the Capacitance Sensors
Grease Hardware Store / Hackerspace
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
5/5
Parts
Used on the gears and wheel to ensure smooth, friction free operation .
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
1/40
Step
First, build the Tamiya Double Gearbox. Following the enclosed instructions, build the Gearbox in Configuration C, gear ratio 114.7:1 Make sure to solder leads to the motors. Once the Gearbox is installed, the motors will be inaccessible.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
2/40
Step
Place Wheel Frame B on a flat surface.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
3/40
Step
Apply grease to the shaft, and underside of the Drive Gear. Install the Drive Gear in the large, angled hole. (The Drive Gear is the Gear with a hexagonal hole and angled teeth.)
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
4/40
Step
Grease the teeth of the Wheel, then place it over the assembly. The teeth of the Drive Gear will engage with the teeth on the inside of the Wheel.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
5/40
Step
Grease the two Idler Gears Install the Idler Gears in the remaining two holes. The teeth of the Idler Gears should engage the teeth of the Wheel.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
6/40
Step
Grease the inside of Wheel Frame A in all places it will be in contact with the gears. Install Wheel Frame A in place. When lined up properly, it will snap down into place. Resist the urge to throw the assembly like a Discus.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
7/40
Step
Install M3x40 and M3x25 bolts as shown. The screw the M3x25 bolt in completely. Screw the M3x40 bolts in until they hit the tabletop. Now Go back to Step 1 and build the second wheel.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
8/40
Step
With the two wheels on the table, Insert the last 2 M3x40 and 2 M3x25 bolts as shown. The Left Wheel and Right Wheel have different bolt configurations, but are otherwise identical. Make sure the wheels spin freely. If not, try loosening the bolts, or checking the gear teeth for obstructions.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
9/40
Step
Lets build some Rockets! Slide the Fins into the slots so the internal screw holes line up.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
10/40
Step
Secure the first Fin with 2 M3x16 bolts
11/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Now secure the other Fin with 2 M3x16 bolts. There’s two rockets, so now go back and do all that again.
12/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Attach the Arduino to the Arduino Bracket with a single M3x10 bolt. Make sure to match the orientation shown above. Don’t over tighten the bolt, or the Arduino may be damaged.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
13/38
Step
Snap the Tail onto the Inner Body Left.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
14/40
Step
Snap the Inner Body Right into the Tail and secure the two sides together with 3 M3x16 bolts.
15/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
There are different face parts available. Select whichever you like, but installation is the same. The faces are made up of Mouth, Goggles, and Eyes (later step)
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
16/40
Step
Secure the Face to the Body using 4 M3x10 screw.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
17/40
Step
Make sure everything is looking good up to this point.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
18/40
Step
Glue the Eyes into place with a dot of Super Glue.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
19/40
Step
Line up the Left Wheel with the holes on the Body. This can be tricky, so take your time.
20/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Once you get the Bolts and holes lined up, screw the M3x40s the rest of the way in. Don’t overtighten the Bolts, or the wheel may bind. When your done, make sure the Wheel spins freely. If not, try backing the bolts out a half turn.
21/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Put Wheely on his side. Its a good idea to do the next several steps on top of a towel.
22/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up the Hexagonal shaft of the Tamiya Double Gearbox with the hexagonal hole in the Drive Gear. Be sure to line up the mounting tabs as shown. Note - Once the Gearbox is installed, the motors will be inaccessible. Make sure to solder leads to the motors and test them before installing.
23/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Press the Tamiya Double Gearbox down into place. Go slowly and use firm, steady pressure.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
24/40
Step
The Gearbox’s attachment point should slide into the flat area on the wheel. As show above.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
25/40
Step
Align the hexagonal hole on Right Wheel with the the Hexagonal Shaft on the Gearbox.
26/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Press the Right Wheel onto the Tamiya Double Gearbox. Go slowly and use firm steady pressure.
27/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up the bolts in Right Wheel with the holes on the Body. This can be tricky, so take your time. When you have them lined up, screw the M3x40 bolts in the rest of the way. Don’t overtighten the Bolts, or the wheel may bind. When your done, make sure the Wheel spins. If not, try backing the bolts out a half turn.
28/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Check your work. Hook each motor up to a battery to make sure everything is running properly.
29/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up Outer Body Left with the space in the Left Wheel. Press it into place.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
30/40
Step
Use two M3x16 bolts to secure Outer Body Left onto Wheely.
31/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Screw the Arduino Bracket into the three holes on the back of Outer Body Left using three M3x16 bolts. The Arduino should point down.
32/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
The power from the battery goes first to the Pololu motor controller(Vmot), and then to the Arduino(Vin). The Arduino provides regulated 5 volt (5v) to the Pololu(VCC), and control signal on pins 4(Err), 5(Reset), 6(TX), and 7(RX). The Sensors are attached to digital pins 11 (send), 12 (ReceiveL), and 13(ReceiveR). The ReceiveL and ReceiveR both have a 10M ohm resister between them and Send. The Capacitive sensors can be omitted for an easier build.
33/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Using the circuit diagram, construct the two wiring harnesses. The yellow wires are the Sensor Harness. The orange heat shrink contains the 10M ohm resisters mounted on perf board. To make the sensors, cut two equal strips from the Copper Flashing. In the Motor Harness I use JST connectors on the leads to the motors and battery. Using connectors make repairs easier in the field, but you can just solder everything together if you want.
34/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Install the Wiring Harness and Sensor Harness into the Wheely. Check the schematic to see where the harnesses plug into the Arduino. After everything is assembled and tested, put a small dot of hot glue on the connections to make sure the stay plugged in.
35/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Load the software onto the Arduino. After the Wheely is finished, you can access the usb port by removing the Left Rocket. To compile and upload the sketch you will need to install the Arduino Capsense Library available at: www.arduino.cc/playground/Main/CapSense
36/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up Outer Body Right with the space in the Right Wheel. Press it into place.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
37/40
Step
Use two M3x16 screws to secure Outer Body Right onto Wheely.
38/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Secure the Right Rocket onto the Wheely’s right side using three M3x16 bolts. If you are using the Capacitance Sensors, press them into the slots on the back of the Rockets before installing.
39/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Slide the Battery into place above the Arduino as shown. I used a LiPo RC battery, but any battery setup that can provide 5 to 9 volts will work.
40/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Secure the Right Rocket onto the Wheely’s right side using three M3x16 bolts. If you are using the Capacitance Sensors, press them into the slots on the back of the Rockets before installing.
www.MakerBot.com Created by Michael Curry - MakerBot Design Studio - Spring 2012 Keep It Awesome
www.thingiverse.com/thing:
Assembly Instructions and Parts List
Wheely. Wheely (Pullus Sine Fuga Ex Machina) is a domesticated subspecies of the common Flightless Aircraft. Found in the disused aerodromes of the southwestern deserts, Wheelies descend from earlier generations of autonomous UAV’s. They live in rigorously organized communities called ‘squadrons’ and spend most of their lives socializing. Largely ambivalent to other mechanical organisms, Wheely retains his ancestors ability to detect electric fields. Wheely is intended as a project for the skilled maker. To complete this project, you will need to read a circuit diagram, solder a wiring harness, upload a sketch to an Arduino, and assemble a precisely deigned Japanese gearbox. Printing on the MakerBot Replicator takes approximately 30 hours, and assembly time is 4 to 6 hours.
-Michael Curry (Skimbal)
I would like to thank 3D Warehouse user ‘iankantian’ for the Tamiya Gearbox model and user ‘James’ for the Arduino model. Both models are available in there original forms at 3dwarehouse.com
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 444 Castro Street, Suite 900, Mountain View, California, 94041, USA.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
1/5
Parts
These parts make up the moving and accent parts of Wheely. Print them all in the same color. Some parts need to be printed twice. Wheel.stl needs to be printed with ‘external support’ enabled. There is an alternate version of Wheel.stl called Wheel Treaded.stl which has v-shaped treads. I print the parts at 10% infill with 1 extra shell.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
2/5
Parts
These parts make up Wheely’s body. Print them all in the same color. Notice that Rocket Fins.stl needs to be printed twice. I print the parts at 10% infill with 1 extra shell.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
3/5
Parts
These are the optional and extra parts that let you customize your Wheely and give it some character. The Heart Tail and Star Tail are set up for DuelExtrusion. Eyes A.stl, Goggles A.stl, Goggles B.stl, Aviators.stl, Mouth.stl, and Mustache.stl need to be printed with ‘external support’ enabled.
Arduino Uno Open source microcontroller store.makerbot.com/arduino-uno.html
Pololu Qik 2s9v1
Tamiya 70168 Double Gearbox Kit
Dual Serial Motor Controller
Low voltage Gearbox
www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1110
www.pololu.com/catalog/product/114
LiPo Battery 7.4v, 1000mAh http://www.hobbyking.com
2 10M ohm Resistors Radio Shack / Hackerspace Used in the Capacitance Sensors
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
4/5
Parts
4 AA batteries can be substituted for the LiPo battery. Please don’t use a LiPo battery unless you know what it is and how to take care of it.
M3 Hardware www.mcmaster.com/
Copper Flashing Hardware Store / Hackerspace Used in the Capacitance Sensors
Grease Hardware Store / Hackerspace
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
5/5
Parts
Used on the gears and wheel to ensure smooth, friction free operation .
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
1/40
Step
First, build the Tamiya Double Gearbox. Following the enclosed instructions, build the Gearbox in Configuration C, gear ratio 114.7:1 Make sure to solder leads to the motors. Once the Gearbox is installed, the motors will be inaccessible.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
2/40
Step
Place Wheel Frame B on a flat surface.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
3/40
Step
Apply grease to the shaft, and underside of the Drive Gear. Install the Drive Gear in the large, angled hole. (The Drive Gear is the Gear with a hexagonal hole and angled teeth.)
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
4/40
Step
Grease the teeth of the Wheel, then place it over the assembly. The teeth of the Drive Gear will engage with the teeth on the inside of the Wheel.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
5/40
Step
Grease the two Idler Gears Install the Idler Gears in the remaining two holes. The teeth of the Idler Gears should engage the teeth of the Wheel.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
6/40
Step
Grease the inside of Wheel Frame A in all places it will be in contact with the gears. Install Wheel Frame A in place. When lined up properly, it will snap down into place. Resist the urge to throw the assembly like a Discus.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
7/40
Step
Install M3x40 and M3x25 bolts as shown. The screw the M3x25 bolt in completely. Screw the M3x40 bolts in until they hit the tabletop. Now Go back to Step 1 and build the second wheel.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
8/40
Step
With the two wheels on the table, Insert the last 2 M3x40 and 2 M3x25 bolts as shown. The Left Wheel and Right Wheel have different bolt configurations, but are otherwise identical. Make sure the wheels spin freely. If not, try loosening the bolts, or checking the gear teeth for obstructions.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
9/40
Step
Lets build some Rockets! Slide the Fins into the slots so the internal screw holes line up.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
10/40
Step
Secure the first Fin with 2 M3x16 bolts
11/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Now secure the other Fin with 2 M3x16 bolts. There’s two rockets, so now go back and do all that again.
12/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Attach the Arduino to the Arduino Bracket with a single M3x10 bolt. Make sure to match the orientation shown above. Don’t over tighten the bolt, or the Arduino may be damaged.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
13/38
Step
Snap the Tail onto the Inner Body Left.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
14/40
Step
Snap the Inner Body Right into the Tail and secure the two sides together with 3 M3x16 bolts.
15/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
There are different face parts available. Select whichever you like, but installation is the same. The faces are made up of Mouth, Goggles, and Eyes (later step)
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
16/40
Step
Secure the Face to the Body using 4 M3x10 screw.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
17/40
Step
Make sure everything is looking good up to this point.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
18/40
Step
Glue the Eyes into place with a dot of Super Glue.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
19/40
Step
Line up the Left Wheel with the holes on the Body. This can be tricky, so take your time.
20/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Once you get the Bolts and holes lined up, screw the M3x40s the rest of the way in. Don’t overtighten the Bolts, or the wheel may bind. When your done, make sure the Wheel spins freely. If not, try backing the bolts out a half turn.
21/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Put Wheely on his side. Its a good idea to do the next several steps on top of a towel.
22/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up the Hexagonal shaft of the Tamiya Double Gearbox with the hexagonal hole in the Drive Gear. Be sure to line up the mounting tabs as shown. Note - Once the Gearbox is installed, the motors will be inaccessible. Make sure to solder leads to the motors and test them before installing.
23/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Press the Tamiya Double Gearbox down into place. Go slowly and use firm, steady pressure.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
24/40
Step
The Gearbox’s attachment point should slide into the flat area on the wheel. As show above.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
25/40
Step
Align the hexagonal hole on Right Wheel with the the Hexagonal Shaft on the Gearbox.
26/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Press the Right Wheel onto the Tamiya Double Gearbox. Go slowly and use firm steady pressure.
27/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up the bolts in Right Wheel with the holes on the Body. This can be tricky, so take your time. When you have them lined up, screw the M3x40 bolts in the rest of the way. Don’t overtighten the Bolts, or the wheel may bind. When your done, make sure the Wheel spins. If not, try backing the bolts out a half turn.
28/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Check your work. Hook each motor up to a battery to make sure everything is running properly.
29/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up Outer Body Left with the space in the Left Wheel. Press it into place.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
30/40
Step
Use two M3x16 bolts to secure Outer Body Left onto Wheely.
31/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Screw the Arduino Bracket into the three holes on the back of Outer Body Left using three M3x16 bolts. The Arduino should point down.
32/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
The power from the battery goes first to the Pololu motor controller(Vmot), and then to the Arduino(Vin). The Arduino provides regulated 5 volt (5v) to the Pololu(VCC), and control signal on pins 4(Err), 5(Reset), 6(TX), and 7(RX). The Sensors are attached to digital pins 11 (send), 12 (ReceiveL), and 13(ReceiveR). The ReceiveL and ReceiveR both have a 10M ohm resister between them and Send. The Capacitive sensors can be omitted for an easier build.
33/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Using the circuit diagram, construct the two wiring harnesses. The yellow wires are the Sensor Harness. The orange heat shrink contains the 10M ohm resisters mounted on perf board. To make the sensors, cut two equal strips from the Copper Flashing. In the Motor Harness I use JST connectors on the leads to the motors and battery. Using connectors make repairs easier in the field, but you can just solder everything together if you want.
34/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Install the Wiring Harness and Sensor Harness into the Wheely. Check the schematic to see where the harnesses plug into the Arduino. After everything is assembled and tested, put a small dot of hot glue on the connections to make sure the stay plugged in.
35/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Load the software onto the Arduino. After the Wheely is finished, you can access the usb port by removing the Left Rocket. To compile and upload the sketch you will need to install the Arduino Capsense Library available at: www.arduino.cc/playground/Main/CapSense
36/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Line up Outer Body Right with the space in the Right Wheel. Press it into place.
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
37/40
Step
Use two M3x16 screws to secure Outer Body Right onto Wheely.
38/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Secure the Right Rocket onto the Wheely’s right side using three M3x16 bolts. If you are using the Capacitance Sensors, press them into the slots on the back of the Rockets before installing.
39/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Slide the Battery into place above the Arduino as shown. I used a LiPo RC battery, but any battery setup that can provide 5 to 9 volts will work.
40/40
Michael Curry - MakerBot Studio - Spring 2012
Step
Secure the Right Rocket onto the Wheely’s right side using three M3x16 bolts. If you are using the Capacitance Sensors, press them into the slots on the back of the Rockets before installing.
www.MakerBot.com Created by Michael Curry - MakerBot Design Studio - Spring 2012 Keep It Awesome
