Spanish fashion in figures
Spanish fashion in figures
Underwear & Lingerie 1. The Current Situation Until recently, underwear and lingerie were simply basic necessities where practicality and value for money were the consumer’s chief concerns. In recent years, however, fashion trends have revolutionised an industry which has had to adapt its production methods to a changing market. Spain is one of the largest global producers of lingerie and underwear, and Europe’s number one manufacturer of men’s and women’s underpants. It is also the world’s second largest swimwear manufacturer. In 2003, production in these sectors was worth Euro 1.062 million, of which lingerie accounted for more than 75%. Particularly striking is the export growth rate which has been in double figures for the last few years. In 2004, underwear and lingerie exports rose to Euro 206.542 million. Swimwear exports rose 33.6%, to reach Euro 54.613 million. Spain has some two hundred firms working in this sector, most of which are based in Catalonia (40%) and Valencia (20%). The swimwear sector has recently gained considerable momentum. Many of its manufacturers were already active in lingerie and subsequently diversified into swimwear, which requires similar productive systems. This combination also has the advantage of resolving the seasonal problems faced by the industry. Overview of the sector Total underwear and lingerie, hosiery and swimwear in 2003 and variation over 2002
Figures in Euro million.. 2004
2003
2002
%(03/02)
Imports
616.898
615,513
616,898
-1
Exports
309,421
323,444
308,754
5
Output
No data available
1,062.542
1,086.201
-2
Consumption
No data available
1,274.100
1,269.206
0.4
Source: ICEX
2. Foreign Trade Cutting-edge creativity and design has promoted the penetration of Spanish underwear in the international market. Spanish designers like Andrés Sardá, Guillermina Baeza, Totón Comella and Dolores Cortés are among those to have made the most significant contribution to this situation, taking their collections to major international fashion shows. But undoubtedly the main contributors to Spanish export success have been the specialist chains emerging in recent years, which have built up an extensive distribution network in some of the larger foreign markets. Consolidated brands like the Cortefiel Group’s Women’s Secret and Inditex’s Oysho are cases in point. The combined contribution of both these forces took foreign sales to Euro 309.421 million in 2004. The Spanish industry has proved itself capable of meeting the challenges posed by its competitors around the world. Italy is the world’s number one swimwear producer, with an output three and a half times that of Spain. But new competitors have also recently emerged in the Far East, not to mention Morocco and Tunisia. Spain has met this challenge by attracting consumers with new and original garments, spectacular designs and excellent quality. Spanish creativity has made a name for itself abroad, particularly in countries like France and Portugal, which account for 40% of Spain’s underwear and swimwear exports. Spanish firms have sought to globalise, taking an active part in major trade fairs both at home and abroad. These include the Salon de Lingerie in Paris, Lingerie Americas in New York and Lyons’ Mode City and Body Look in Leipzig, Germany, where Spanish firms have been particularly prominent in recent years. In Spain, the key fairs are SIMM with Madrid’s Íntima-Moda-Baño and BCN Showrooms in Barcelona. The commitment to international expansion –export performance Lingerie/Underwear Swimwear Hosiery Total Source: Icex
2002 216,127 41,300 51,328 308,754
2003 230,388 40,879 52,096 323,363
2004 206,542 54,613 48,266 309,421
% (04/03) -10.4 33.6 -7 -4
Leaders Main lingerie and underwear export markets. Figures in Euro million. Lingerie and underwear
CZECH REPUBLIC 1% RUSSIA 1%
PORTUGAL 19%
Others 14%
USA 1%
FRANCE 16%
ANDORRA 1% UNITED KINGDOM 2%
GREECE 2%
MEXICUM 3%
TUNISIA 15%
BELGIUM 4%
GERMANY 5%
ITALY 9% MOROCCO 7%
Swimwear USA 1% MEXICO 1%
RUSSIA 1%
ANDORRA 1%
Others 8%
PORTUGAL 25%
SWITZERLAND 1% NETHERLANDS 2% MOROCCO 3% GREECE 3%
FRANCE 18%
BELGICUM 3% TUNISIA 7% UNITED KINGDOM 5%
ITALY 10%
GERMANY 11%
Hosiery
MEXICO 1%
ANDORRA 1%
IRLAND 2%
Other 12%
PORTUGAL 19,1%
GERMANY 2%
FRANCE 13%
SAUDI ARABIA 2% ITALY 3% GREECE 4% UNITED KIGDOM 13%
SWITZERLAND 4%
AUSTRIA 5%
BELGICUM 9%
NETHERLANDS 9%
3. Companies Over the last few years, Spanish lingerie and underwear has been defined by the emergence of textiles groups like Inditex and Cortefiel, operating under the Oysho and Women´secret labels respectively. As a result, distribution channels such as retail chains and franchises are obtaining a growing share of the market. Current trends indicate that, within a few years, this share will have risen from 4% to levels similar to the average on more mature European markets, which currently surpasses 21%. Women’secret was the first off the mark when, in 1993 it revolutionised the market by offering an extensive range of products which then focused on lingerie and underwear, but has since expanded to include a growing selection of homewear. Cortefiel’s lingerie and swimwear label has looked to diversification as its strategy to cater for the needs of the modern woman. One of its latest ventures is Only For Kids, a range of products aimed at children up to age 4, with underwear and swimwear to match its women’s designs. Springfield and Women´secret are the two Cortefiel labels best represented abroad, and which make the greatest contribution to total sales. Indeed, the Women’secret share is 13%. The loyalty of customers, who value the growing number of products on offer, has kept Women’secret leader in the domestic market. It currently has 165 outlets at home and 120 abroad in countries including Germany, France, Belgium, Thailand and China. Outside Europe, the group distributes through franchisees. The label expects to give these figures a
major boost over the next three years, and plans to reach 400 outlets in Spain and 200 abroad by the year 2008. It was almost ten years later, at the end of 2001, that Inditex launched Oysho with an initial investment of ten million Euros. The Oysho lingerie label was created to fill a gap in the market, to offer the Group’s existing customers an additional service and to help democratise the underwear and lingerie fashion industry. One of its main achievements has been to combine an attractive price with designs that incorporate the latest trends. New products can be found in its stores each week and 80% of its collection is renewed every season. It has also set itself apart by offering underwear for men as well as women. Since it was created, it has implemented an active investment policy and now has 104 stores in countries including Greece, Saudi Arabia, Mexico, Portugal, Italy, Kuwait and Venezuela. In 2004, it opened 28 new outlets, bringing in substantial sales in the markets where it is already established. It now has plans to open a further 20 to 30 new shops. Another major and experienced player in this sector is Andrés Sardá, who founded his firm in the sixties. He has become Spain’s international lingerie ambassador and was chosen Designer of the Year 2005 at the Salon International de la Lingerie, the first nonFrench designer to receive this accolade. Sardá is renowned for his pioneering use of new materials and his masterly skill in combining textures, colours and designs. His company is well established across the globe and present in key markets like America and Asia. In fact, 70% of its output is now sold abroad, where he has become a top name in lingerie. TCN is known as a brand with an excellent image. Totón Comella, the designer behind the label, has opted for comfortable, simple, fresh designs in keeping with the latest trends. To her lingerie and swimwear, she has recently added a collection of matching accessories. She was also one of the Spanish designers chosen by Austrian firm Swarovski to design its Crystal Expressions collection. Some experts argue that it is labels in the premium and super-premium segments, whose consumers trust the hallmark they feel them to represent, which offer most potential for the future. Other such designers who have made a decisive contribution to Spain’s image in this sector are Guillermina Baeza and Dolores Cortés. Vives Vidal is another leading light in the trade. It heads the VF Boutique, VF Diffusion and Private Label divisions in Europe, and produces and distributes the Belcor, Bolero, Gemma, Intima Cherry, Lou, Variance, Vassarette and Bestform underwear labels and Belcor and Majestic swimwear labels – all its own brands. Well-known and established virtually everywhere, this global presence, in countries like Germany, Benelux, France, Italy, Portugal and the USA, has turned it into a role model for many like-minded firms.
Selmark is another authority in the underwear and lingerie sector, producing collections that cater for every kind of woman. It has also carved out a successful global position for itself. Exports account for 35% of its total sales and it is present in 25 countries, particularly in Europe and Latin America. It is also a regular at major international trade fairs. Another company which has made a decisive contribution to the quality image of Spanish lingerie is Little K which produces Little Kiss, Kiss Lingerie, Sarabeth and Deidad, and whose ability to change with the times has made it a force to contend with. Right from the outset, it has made innovation the cornerstone of its growth strategy, both at home and abroad. Outside Spain, it has also notched up a series of successes. It sells its garments in 47 countries and foreign sales account for 25% of the group’s turnover. It now aims to consolidate its position in Asia and Eastern Europe. Exports make up a smaller percentage of the turnover of Basmar. But this swimwear and nightwear specialist founded in 1976 has nevertheless made a name for itself in an increasingly competitive market. Its turnover is estimated at more than Euro 350 million, of which foreign sales account for more than 10%. Another Catalan firm that is well represented abroad is Rosa Ferrer, whose Francebel Junior, R.F. Junior, Rosa Ferrer and L.M. Luxe labels aim to cater for the needs of women, children and young people. Its extensive range of products is sold to more than 17 different countries, and the USA is one of its major markets. Teleno, too, has notched up success after success on the global market. It has three subsidiaries in Germany, France and Portugal, and its collections – characterised by their pattern design, quality and affordability – are available in more than 40 countries. Catalonia is not the only region with a high number of lingerie and swimwear specialists. The Canaries are another major production area. Key firms include Lenita, which operates under three labels on the international market: XTG for men’s swimwear, Lilliane for women’s swimwear and Feet for children. Exports have become a priority for the firm and account for 25% of turnover. Another Canary company established at global level is Vitamina C, which distributes to South Africa, Germany and Portugal. 4. Trade Fairs in Spain The key Spanish trade fairs are Íntima-Moda-Baño in SIMM and Barcelona Showrooms in Barcelona. For more on lingerie, underwear and swimwear fairs in Spain, go to Fashionfromspain.com.
Underwear & Lingerie 1. The Current Situation Until recently, underwear and lingerie were simply basic necessities where practicality and value for money were the consumer’s chief concerns. In recent years, however, fashion trends have revolutionised an industry which has had to adapt its production methods to a changing market. Spain is one of the largest global producers of lingerie and underwear, and Europe’s number one manufacturer of men’s and women’s underpants. It is also the world’s second largest swimwear manufacturer. In 2003, production in these sectors was worth Euro 1.062 million, of which lingerie accounted for more than 75%. Particularly striking is the export growth rate which has been in double figures for the last few years. In 2004, underwear and lingerie exports rose to Euro 206.542 million. Swimwear exports rose 33.6%, to reach Euro 54.613 million. Spain has some two hundred firms working in this sector, most of which are based in Catalonia (40%) and Valencia (20%). The swimwear sector has recently gained considerable momentum. Many of its manufacturers were already active in lingerie and subsequently diversified into swimwear, which requires similar productive systems. This combination also has the advantage of resolving the seasonal problems faced by the industry. Overview of the sector Total underwear and lingerie, hosiery and swimwear in 2003 and variation over 2002
Figures in Euro million.. 2004
2003
2002
%(03/02)
Imports
616.898
615,513
616,898
-1
Exports
309,421
323,444
308,754
5
Output
No data available
1,062.542
1,086.201
-2
Consumption
No data available
1,274.100
1,269.206
0.4
Source: ICEX
2. Foreign Trade Cutting-edge creativity and design has promoted the penetration of Spanish underwear in the international market. Spanish designers like Andrés Sardá, Guillermina Baeza, Totón Comella and Dolores Cortés are among those to have made the most significant contribution to this situation, taking their collections to major international fashion shows. But undoubtedly the main contributors to Spanish export success have been the specialist chains emerging in recent years, which have built up an extensive distribution network in some of the larger foreign markets. Consolidated brands like the Cortefiel Group’s Women’s Secret and Inditex’s Oysho are cases in point. The combined contribution of both these forces took foreign sales to Euro 309.421 million in 2004. The Spanish industry has proved itself capable of meeting the challenges posed by its competitors around the world. Italy is the world’s number one swimwear producer, with an output three and a half times that of Spain. But new competitors have also recently emerged in the Far East, not to mention Morocco and Tunisia. Spain has met this challenge by attracting consumers with new and original garments, spectacular designs and excellent quality. Spanish creativity has made a name for itself abroad, particularly in countries like France and Portugal, which account for 40% of Spain’s underwear and swimwear exports. Spanish firms have sought to globalise, taking an active part in major trade fairs both at home and abroad. These include the Salon de Lingerie in Paris, Lingerie Americas in New York and Lyons’ Mode City and Body Look in Leipzig, Germany, where Spanish firms have been particularly prominent in recent years. In Spain, the key fairs are SIMM with Madrid’s Íntima-Moda-Baño and BCN Showrooms in Barcelona. The commitment to international expansion –export performance Lingerie/Underwear Swimwear Hosiery Total Source: Icex
2002 216,127 41,300 51,328 308,754
2003 230,388 40,879 52,096 323,363
2004 206,542 54,613 48,266 309,421
% (04/03) -10.4 33.6 -7 -4
Leaders Main lingerie and underwear export markets. Figures in Euro million. Lingerie and underwear
CZECH REPUBLIC 1% RUSSIA 1%
PORTUGAL 19%
Others 14%
USA 1%
FRANCE 16%
ANDORRA 1% UNITED KINGDOM 2%
GREECE 2%
MEXICUM 3%
TUNISIA 15%
BELGIUM 4%
GERMANY 5%
ITALY 9% MOROCCO 7%
Swimwear USA 1% MEXICO 1%
RUSSIA 1%
ANDORRA 1%
Others 8%
PORTUGAL 25%
SWITZERLAND 1% NETHERLANDS 2% MOROCCO 3% GREECE 3%
FRANCE 18%
BELGICUM 3% TUNISIA 7% UNITED KINGDOM 5%
ITALY 10%
GERMANY 11%
Hosiery
MEXICO 1%
ANDORRA 1%
IRLAND 2%
Other 12%
PORTUGAL 19,1%
GERMANY 2%
FRANCE 13%
SAUDI ARABIA 2% ITALY 3% GREECE 4% UNITED KIGDOM 13%
SWITZERLAND 4%
AUSTRIA 5%
BELGICUM 9%
NETHERLANDS 9%
3. Companies Over the last few years, Spanish lingerie and underwear has been defined by the emergence of textiles groups like Inditex and Cortefiel, operating under the Oysho and Women´secret labels respectively. As a result, distribution channels such as retail chains and franchises are obtaining a growing share of the market. Current trends indicate that, within a few years, this share will have risen from 4% to levels similar to the average on more mature European markets, which currently surpasses 21%. Women’secret was the first off the mark when, in 1993 it revolutionised the market by offering an extensive range of products which then focused on lingerie and underwear, but has since expanded to include a growing selection of homewear. Cortefiel’s lingerie and swimwear label has looked to diversification as its strategy to cater for the needs of the modern woman. One of its latest ventures is Only For Kids, a range of products aimed at children up to age 4, with underwear and swimwear to match its women’s designs. Springfield and Women´secret are the two Cortefiel labels best represented abroad, and which make the greatest contribution to total sales. Indeed, the Women’secret share is 13%. The loyalty of customers, who value the growing number of products on offer, has kept Women’secret leader in the domestic market. It currently has 165 outlets at home and 120 abroad in countries including Germany, France, Belgium, Thailand and China. Outside Europe, the group distributes through franchisees. The label expects to give these figures a
major boost over the next three years, and plans to reach 400 outlets in Spain and 200 abroad by the year 2008. It was almost ten years later, at the end of 2001, that Inditex launched Oysho with an initial investment of ten million Euros. The Oysho lingerie label was created to fill a gap in the market, to offer the Group’s existing customers an additional service and to help democratise the underwear and lingerie fashion industry. One of its main achievements has been to combine an attractive price with designs that incorporate the latest trends. New products can be found in its stores each week and 80% of its collection is renewed every season. It has also set itself apart by offering underwear for men as well as women. Since it was created, it has implemented an active investment policy and now has 104 stores in countries including Greece, Saudi Arabia, Mexico, Portugal, Italy, Kuwait and Venezuela. In 2004, it opened 28 new outlets, bringing in substantial sales in the markets where it is already established. It now has plans to open a further 20 to 30 new shops. Another major and experienced player in this sector is Andrés Sardá, who founded his firm in the sixties. He has become Spain’s international lingerie ambassador and was chosen Designer of the Year 2005 at the Salon International de la Lingerie, the first nonFrench designer to receive this accolade. Sardá is renowned for his pioneering use of new materials and his masterly skill in combining textures, colours and designs. His company is well established across the globe and present in key markets like America and Asia. In fact, 70% of its output is now sold abroad, where he has become a top name in lingerie. TCN is known as a brand with an excellent image. Totón Comella, the designer behind the label, has opted for comfortable, simple, fresh designs in keeping with the latest trends. To her lingerie and swimwear, she has recently added a collection of matching accessories. She was also one of the Spanish designers chosen by Austrian firm Swarovski to design its Crystal Expressions collection. Some experts argue that it is labels in the premium and super-premium segments, whose consumers trust the hallmark they feel them to represent, which offer most potential for the future. Other such designers who have made a decisive contribution to Spain’s image in this sector are Guillermina Baeza and Dolores Cortés. Vives Vidal is another leading light in the trade. It heads the VF Boutique, VF Diffusion and Private Label divisions in Europe, and produces and distributes the Belcor, Bolero, Gemma, Intima Cherry, Lou, Variance, Vassarette and Bestform underwear labels and Belcor and Majestic swimwear labels – all its own brands. Well-known and established virtually everywhere, this global presence, in countries like Germany, Benelux, France, Italy, Portugal and the USA, has turned it into a role model for many like-minded firms.
Selmark is another authority in the underwear and lingerie sector, producing collections that cater for every kind of woman. It has also carved out a successful global position for itself. Exports account for 35% of its total sales and it is present in 25 countries, particularly in Europe and Latin America. It is also a regular at major international trade fairs. Another company which has made a decisive contribution to the quality image of Spanish lingerie is Little K which produces Little Kiss, Kiss Lingerie, Sarabeth and Deidad, and whose ability to change with the times has made it a force to contend with. Right from the outset, it has made innovation the cornerstone of its growth strategy, both at home and abroad. Outside Spain, it has also notched up a series of successes. It sells its garments in 47 countries and foreign sales account for 25% of the group’s turnover. It now aims to consolidate its position in Asia and Eastern Europe. Exports make up a smaller percentage of the turnover of Basmar. But this swimwear and nightwear specialist founded in 1976 has nevertheless made a name for itself in an increasingly competitive market. Its turnover is estimated at more than Euro 350 million, of which foreign sales account for more than 10%. Another Catalan firm that is well represented abroad is Rosa Ferrer, whose Francebel Junior, R.F. Junior, Rosa Ferrer and L.M. Luxe labels aim to cater for the needs of women, children and young people. Its extensive range of products is sold to more than 17 different countries, and the USA is one of its major markets. Teleno, too, has notched up success after success on the global market. It has three subsidiaries in Germany, France and Portugal, and its collections – characterised by their pattern design, quality and affordability – are available in more than 40 countries. Catalonia is not the only region with a high number of lingerie and swimwear specialists. The Canaries are another major production area. Key firms include Lenita, which operates under three labels on the international market: XTG for men’s swimwear, Lilliane for women’s swimwear and Feet for children. Exports have become a priority for the firm and account for 25% of turnover. Another Canary company established at global level is Vitamina C, which distributes to South Africa, Germany and Portugal. 4. Trade Fairs in Spain The key Spanish trade fairs are Íntima-Moda-Baño in SIMM and Barcelona Showrooms in Barcelona. For more on lingerie, underwear and swimwear fairs in Spain, go to Fashionfromspain.com.
